cross drilled/slotted rotors

[boxer3maine]

I don't know anyhting about this stuff...
all the way to tractor trailers.. it has been nothing but a thick chunk of steel..

I want to call it a hoax, but thought to ask here first.

I found some little performance rotors for the loyale type subaru. I found I don't need anyhting, especially after removing subarus rear end kinks (I have strong back brakes)..but there is remnants of a 1 wheel parking brake having its way every so slightly...

I ponder buying the slotted/zinc plated.

oddly enough the bigger tread is exactly a bigger cooler rotor. the weight of the car never changed, I deciphered easily how that made sense...years going by only prove it.

Another non-smalled item is the master cylinder, it is the same for subarus 500 pounds in steel weight heavier. The setup could last forever at the rate it is going...only replacing in normal intervals.

back to the point... I assume the vented slotted die younger than oem thick, looking good?
:dunno:

I want to get a kink out of a rotor (so very slight, I live with it), but it never gets hot enough to machine itself back to straight.

does the vented recover strange things like that? (parking brake has been my number one cuplrit, as if the car moves left and right at night)

[Shiux]

I had regular (blank) rotors and slotted rotors before - I never noticed a difference one way or another.

alot of drilled rotors are weak because of the way they are done (ghetto)

[BogeyBones]

rotors, regardless of slotted or not, will last a life time if the pads are replaced in a timely manner!

[Joe]

Slotted and/or drilled rotors are not meant to stop you any quicker. Thier purpose is heat dissipation. So if you are just a normal driver, no auto-x subie owner, they are unnecessary. if you want increased stopping power, you need to upgrade rotor size, caliper size, stainless lines, and pads. All of that will shorten overall stopping distance. Slotted rotors alone will simply help prevent warpage and some brake fade from Auto-X or other forms of Racing.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-parts/brake-rotors2.htm

[Nate8409]

Slotted and drilled are 99% pointless because most are non directional. Even DBA which many love are non directional without going to a two piece rotor. Without rattling on a lot the point is they are a waste. The only real upgrade without a directionally vented rotor is a cryogenic treated rotor but a cryogenic rotor cost three times as much as a blank normal rotor. A quality brake fluid and a set of plain Jane rotors. Call it a day there.

[boxer3maine]

I had regular (blank) rotors and slotted rotors before - I never noticed a difference one way or another.

alot of drilled rotors are weak because of the way they are done (ghetto)

thanks for replies.

that is my only worry.

the only rotor I have ever shattered was a 2wd loyale..back brakes functioning strong would have been suicide, I respected subarus build. Funny enough, I wrecked because of the back end kicking out in the 70s mph...they can slide sideways a looooooong freakin way!

the wagons can really lay the back brake on and AWD.. I got my own making noise after every rainstorm (they clean up to even the gentlest of peddle)

was curious to the slotted. so it does avoid warpage... I may try them. still the same weight car its always been...with a tougher back brake...takes some load off anyway.

seems weird to charge more for less steel...I guess it is the machining that is costing.

[Antihero]

rotors, regardless of slotted or not, will last a life time if the pads are replaced in a timely manner!

Pad slapping FTL.

[SCCNH]

Slotted and/or drilled rotors are not meant to stop you any quicker. Thier purpose is heat dissipation. So if you are just a normal driver, no auto-x subie owner, they are unnecessary. if you want increased stopping power, you need to upgrade rotor size, caliper size, stainless lines, and pads. All of that will shorten overall stopping distance. Slotted rotors alone will simply help prevent warpage and some brake fade from Auto-X or other forms of Racing.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-parts/brake-rotors2.htm

First, unless you are on the most awful pads in the world you will NEVER see brake fade on an AutoX course.

Second, slots and holes do NOT dissipate heat more. The steel of the rotor acts as a heat sink and pulls heat from the pads, helping keep fluid temps low. Taking away material through cross drilling or slotting takes material away that would otherwise help you dissipate heat. Until you get into SERIOUS brake pads there is NO reason to get anything but blank rotors.

[boxer3maine]

First, unless you are on the most awful pads in the world you will NEVER see brake fade on an AutoX course.

Second, slots and holes do NOT dissipate heat more. The steel of the rotor acts as a heat sink and pulls heat from the pads, helping keep fluid temps low. Taking away material through cross drilling or slotting takes material away that would otherwise help you dissipate heat. Until you get into SERIOUS brake pads there is NO reason to get anything but blank rotors.

thanks.

I should know this, being around rigs my whole life. always solid heavy, no excuses.

once upon a time air was pumped into them to make it work instead of let air out.

humanity and brake engineering is still young...often silly.

The 87 I ask about is very light, and back brakes doing more..was thinking of something modern gimmic to add.
the bearings and spindles are quite large, they could do heavier stuff.

I probably won't swap.

[SicRedGt]

Good judgement on here. Don't waste your money.

[etaks99rs]

First, unless you are on the most awful pads in the world you will NEVER see brake fade on an AutoX course.

Second, slots and holes do NOT dissipate heat more. The steel of the rotor acts as a heat sink and pulls heat from the pads, helping keep fluid temps low. Taking away material through cross drilling or slotting takes material away that would otherwise help you dissipate heat. Until you get into SERIOUS brake pads there is NO reason to get anything but blank rotors.

What would a serious pad be?

[boxer3maine]

What would a serious pad be?

the high heaters, or low dust metallics.

ceramic gets hot and just stops working, like clutches...but never wears until shattering.(speaking of dads rig, he had one clutch that went 2 million)

subes are very light... I would not go tractor trailer on them.
surprisingly, the less density pads are the fast grippers...but keep a rotor good.

payoff and loss in any direction one chooses to build.
I go by weight..and a hundred mile per hour scale...
factory is pretty darn good.

[SCCNH]

What would a serious pad be?

Hawk HT-10
EBC Yellowstuff 4000 R
Cobalt XR1

[SpooksRex]

depends on how hard you are on your brakes. I had an 02 wrx that had LGT front brakes and I would smoke the piss out of them. I went to change them and you couldnt tell where the 'wear mark' was because I had melted the dust that got caught in there to meld back into the solid pad. I changed to Hawk HPS & PowerSlot on the front & rear and it was amazing. Just the Hawk pads need to be warmed slightly when starting, but OMG when they are finally warmed up.

So if you drive hard, then think about vented. If not, then I would go solid rotors. Cross drilled just give you less surface area to stop on, so nix them all together.

[hiprsha666]

I bought slotted and drilled because it looks cool.

[Subyspeed]

I did it for weight reduction :hide:

[hiprsha666]

:lol:

[-boz]

What slotted and cross drilled rotors are supposed to do is evacuate the gas that builds up between the rotor and the brake pad. For a street car I would just run regular rotors unless you want a little better braking then run a slotted rotor. The cross drilled rotors have a tendency to explode or crack due to the minimization of the surface area of the rotor, if under heavy breaking.

For a nice daily driver pad I recommend a Porterfield R4S pad, forget about ceramic or any of those other autozone specials. If you're going to autocross don't do the Porterfields as they will get heat soaked and not perform.

[Simple Skillz]

Anyone using stoptechs??

[hiprsha666]

^^^ check out DRT sport in lowell.

[Simple Skillz]

Will be stopping by their shop tomorrow.

[Berge56]

I had stop techs on the front of the WRX and they worked great. I now have brembo slotted rotors that came with my brembo calipers......the slots are worn off and I will be replacing them with DBA's. :lol:

[jwebsta32]

+1 on DBA

[Simple Skillz]

Im looking through DRT Sport website right now. Their prices are pretty cheap. What do you guys think of this one?

http://drt-sport.com/content/2008-subaru-sti-premium-cross-drilledslotted-rotors-front

[GClark]

Slotted rotors will eat your pads. Get some of these Centric Premium ones

http://www.knsbrakes.com/searchResults.php?car_id=55

[hiprsha666]

That's basically what I have. Different application obviously. I haven't pushed them in autox yet, but they perform well for what I have pushed them too. They look good too. They won't however shave off weight like a nice 2 piece rotors.

[Simple Skillz]

That's basically what I have. Different application obviously. I haven't pushed them in autox yet, but they perform well for what I have pushed them too. They look good too. They won't however shave off weight like a nice 2 piece rotors.

You mean like weight reduction?

[hiprsha666]

Ya, 2 piece or even lightweight 1 piece rotors can save a bunch of weight. Not really a deal breaker, but it is an advantage. The DRT rotors are more or less stock weight.

[Simple Skillz]

Did you also went with one of their brake pads too?

[hiprsha666]

No, I have hawk hps

[Simple Skillz]

Alot of members have those pads and say they work pretty good. I'll probably do the same setup like yours. Thanks for the info (like always) dude ! :)

[hiprsha666]

Well definitely shop around. I like my set up, but its not the only good set up, or even anything close to the best. Just keep reading.

[hiprsha666]

http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23301

As an example check out the ISC brake kit. Saving ~12 lbs per side on the front. Getting lightweight components for the rear too would add even more savings. Losing 10-12 lbs of unsprung weight per corner is not insignificant and can be a nice side effect if you are upgrading anyways.

[Simple Skillz]

Yeah, the DBA's seem to be good too

[DHGurs]

Un-sprung weight reduction = wonderful.

Here's (http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyno-tuning-results/483484-dyno-testing-light-weight-rotors.html) a good read

Dyno test:

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/z/4g63girl/shawna_evo_baer_brake_dyno_test.jpg

[Berge56]

dba and hawk hps pads are what I have run in the past....great results.

[Simple Skillz]

Wow, that is interesting. Good Read!

[jwebsta32]

dba and hawk hps pads are what I have run in the past....great results.

running now

[Simple Skillz]

Which dba do you guys have? street series? 4000? 5000? etc?

[DHGurs]

I have 5000 front/4000 rear.

[jwebsta32]

Which dba do you guys have? street series? 4000? 5000? etc?

4000 all around, im not baller enough to have 5k up front

[hiprsha666]

****ing pricey those 5000's are.

[Berge56]

4000 all around, im not baller enough to have 5k up front

This. Gury takes his brakes very seriously!

[Simple Skillz]

Im aiming for weight reduction, not to pricey, and safety :lol:

[DHGurs]

This. Gury takes his brakes very seriously!

:lol:

I do, but my Adam gave me a deal I couldn't pass up when I picked up my cat back.




:hide:

[Berge56]

Oh you lucky bastard. :lol:

[Simple Skillz]

Oh you lucky bastard. :lol:
Indeed he's one lucky man :lol: