1987 subaru GL [Archive] - Page 4 - New England Subaru Forums

boxer3maine

09-27-2011, 08:36 PM

media blast it

I 60k psi electrically blast it. About as no bs as it gets.
a .25 steel is good for blasting..everything else is like sheets could have cheats. not worth it at all.

welding also finds fractures.

this one (in previous posts)
found one from left rear floor pan to center carrier.. no openings, no decay..all painted. spit a drop right out..never saw anything like it. welded a line like lightning...left a nickel looking drop at the other end. :lol:

the tube, I assumed a cast junk..but was impressed that it took welding.
grainless. Adding spring rod allowed for attempting homemade grain. never to stay beautiful with it. it did add many psi to the whole thing, just doing one end and the other. worried of glass like was my last worry...as one end could be welded..it is a problem for the other end. Glad to have both in this year..which is yet a strange ode to whatever they did build. survived several years before getting both ends.

leave whatever subaru did to stop super conducting, and let it have some modern marvels of treatment.
not even the welder removed some of that last suby mystery layer...1 inch away.
and I did shamefully find how they kept that smooth as a new piece.
I don't want another factory one.:unamused:

above is a place that has metal of square tube and round.. would love to make a jig out of old one (as it is exact fit to car) and weld away.
no two are alike at 60k psi.. pushing things around like a rubber band is not possible. this one is quite locked...must use old rear to make new one.

boxer3maine

09-27-2011, 10:48 PM

my only escape going towards alert nunavut has increased speed to 75.:)

3042 rpm = 75 mph.

I guess I need a digital tachometer. :unamused:

3100 is speeding. (76.4)
3000 is runover by a tractor trailer. (73.9)

this is all very precise for police. they can spot non seatbelt suby driving crazy people 100s of feet away.
:eek:

had to find another gear calc, my favorite has an error.

rocky road gear calc (http://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html)

1982gl4

09-27-2011, 11:47 PM

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 08:44 AM

I wish my 82 ea81 turned that low on the interstate.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/1982gl4/Wagons/1-34.jpg

It's a full 4k by 70mph still gets surprisingly good mpg, but it's awful, the next chassis this car gets will have a five speed D/R now questions asked. Some late four speeds were better for interstate, but the gab between 3rd and 4th is atrocious. I think the 2x4 will replace this one until I find a suitable one to swap everything over from this one, and restore it to it's original glory.

the first of tall geared subes is in the ea81 generation someplace..

a true gl touring? :iam:
I am only guessing it would be in that one.

Any d/r in the 5 speed was no doubt for fancy subes.. mpfi/turbo/rx/loyale rs.

to find it in the carb version is lucky for the ea82, built by subaru.

on the web those d/r 5 speeds are still out there, not even expensive...and they go to the 3.9 rear (common one for alot of ea). they must stay lower powered if to respect it. EA is a great engine to keep in front of it.

found a tall ea81 trans at wikipedia:

T81G

Gear Ratios: 1st 3.371 2nd 1.950 3rd 1.266 4th .885 5th .725, Rev 3.583
Usage: 1983-1989 Subaru Leone (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Leone) 1800cc (EA-81 Engine ONLY)!
appears to be tallest geared known to subes.
my own final is .780 on 3.9
there is a mistake in the article, and cannot find dual range. if a marketed jackass wrote it, the best of EA is usually lied about or not even written. I fought with some dufus at wikipedia about the EA series facts already. As it was, they were glorifying all EJ series.. wanted to shrug off some stuff subaru has not even begun to bring back yet. A thorn in the side of facts is the EA in many ways.

Bu11dogg2

09-28-2011, 08:54 AM

at that same RPM i'm going 75mph :lol:

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 09:17 AM

at that same RPM i'm going 75mph :lol:

as things get newer... and that plataeu they reached for the tallest of previous generation comes back..
I may be interested in new subes.

that takes alot of work to build for a nominal runtime of tall geared.. it even needs chassis changes.

the wikipedia article
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Subaru_transmissions

Bu11dogg2

09-28-2011, 09:35 AM

98Wagoon

09-28-2011, 09:37 AM

that question sucks cuz I dont even know what I would buy! and I think of terrible scenarios like this all the time.. :lol:

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 09:41 AM

b3m,

so lets say hypothetically, that you were driving down the road and some rich asshole in his Bentley runs a redlight and T-bones you. your car lights on fire and is burned to the ground, nothing left.

The bentley driver offers you $50,000.00 towards any car that you want.

What would you buy?

50000 subaru ea wagons of course. :eek:

I'd be hurting even with my b-pillar extras.. realistically I would be gimping my way to better health.. costs money.:lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIb70gqRGNY

check this turbo rolls royce (same realm). no sway, no tank..hellacious .25 miles speed. as a welder of a sube chassis.. this is a dream in comparison.

this gets my mind wandering to the 331k mile rwd volvo wagon sitting in hampden for 600 bucks (oddly looks good). it is a weaker generation, but still more to take for granted.

98Wagoon

09-28-2011, 09:45 AM

an 8 second roller.. holy ****... :eek:

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 09:51 AM

an 8 second roller.. holy ****... :eek:
:lol:

The v8 stuff has been tortured like subes through the years. they need steel, they need weight, and they need ninnies in the pansy side of lawed engineering to get out of the freakin way.

the egr cams, the short gears... 1973 onward killed carbs, real draft, and timed fire.

just recently a 347ci small block broke the 462 mph barrier. I am glad older wisdom hangs on to put history in its place.

I felt out some tall gears even in my own backyard projects. I then knew we are all hoaxed into a runted realm.

no excuses for steel is about all I could resolve for that (A reason I weld today).

Bu11dogg2

09-28-2011, 09:54 AM

for real, what would you buy?

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 10:57 AM

for real, what would you buy?

a 379 type peterbilt.

lo range rear, 10 speed tranny (15 speed total).. and a 3408 cat.

factory built, this combo gets a stronger frame.

final drive... 370.
14k front, 40 rears (seems they all do more than that anyway)

for cars.. I would pay nothing more than $1500 for the rest of my life. Call it crazy trauma. :unamused:

I'd be willing to haul some around. not to own them. :D

Bu11dogg2

09-28-2011, 11:00 AM

interesting.

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 11:16 AM

the update I was waiting for.
:)

The repeat of a 2009 drama, interrupting fuel, does have quite a few other tasks to bother it this time, including new ignition. The poller of whatever sets that in to undoubtable is in action, idle drops to 250 and comes back to normal, playing around.. it is a strong return. I do not like this about this sube, but it does get through weathers of the maine kind once dialed in. I called it important when I realized how strong it stays. the cat yellow is a hard paint..almost 24 hours, little odor. will give more layers, impressive stuff. Being brighter under there allows me to take a peak anywhere. the car sits up enough, my skinny self can fit under the whole thing. no regrets using it. As if to have a computer without one.. japanese phenomena. I am still inspired to go back to the 79 brats version of the magnetic pickup.. ballast resist on my own to several settings available. No more polling or playing games.
I know to leave the exhaust alone, with the snappy noise at #4. this is so very well built. the reward should be better than ever. oil pressure still pretending..all it takes is a drop of the oxide this engine can spew in a hg fail to hinder it. obviously well oiled. 250 rpm does not stay running with no oil for very long. Hints of the calm mode is what retains the idle, and into the snap of taking off. the extra draft on loyale cams is as expected, so very glad I got that swapped in now. Very pleasant sound to acknowledge the overlap whisper instead of a thunder thumper. I guess I change the nickname for this car eventually. Ready for inspection.

the original post for this poller I refer to may be here from the last time (2009). Chaning the fuel pump set it off.

walking into the store, I have shorts on..let car idle at its playful 500. the draft coming out is a world stronger, and cooler. Felt it on my legs. no thunder thumping idle and pulses inbetween, a normal overlap I have been begging for. Heater is back, and oh so nice. I'll know to blame radaitor before heater core.
Not a hot rod built here.. this car was so violated in engineering it is very sad. All I did was add modern timing for draft (simply required late revision camshafts)

this afternoon cleaned up interior, scrubbed the mats, ready to go.
something I have not done in the past year is hand wash, get some contrast for black trims to crazy paint. never wshed the wheels yet. cleaned the beads up with a drill for clean install of newer tires. I still forget it can look good and be strong at the same time. An oxymoron today for the most part.

1982gl4

09-28-2011, 05:02 PM

for cars.. I would pay nothing more than $1500 for the rest of my life. Call it crazy trauma. :unamused:

I'm with you there, I may dump some money into fixing them up, but I'm just as happy (if not more so) with my $500 legacy as my $7000 wrx, I always wondered why buy new, when I have the ability to fix older (better engineered cars) and keep my cost down. I honestly think I'll be sticking with the fleet I have now for some time, and thats hard to believe because i have gone through quite a number before this...

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 06:54 PM

I'm with you there, I may dump some money into fixing them up, but I'm just as happy (if not more so) with my $500 legacy as my $7000 wrx, I always wondered why buy new, when I have the ability to fix older (better engineered cars) and keep my cost down. I honestly think I'll be sticking with the fleet I have now for some time, and thats hard to believe because i have gone through quite a number before this...

it seems anywhere but new england keeps old stuff...
and old stuff is the smack-it-around weldable.
I go through physics and back related to 20+ years.
an ecm car is not gonna make it.

today is borons, and computer metal mysteriously staying malleable.

I'll have to humor someday.

on saturday, went to look at a rig with my dad. went for ride.
someone got the auto leveller backwards..but other than that very nice rig. gigantic guts. been in the passenger seat of just about all designs. the "big gut" caterpillar is a goddamn big gut caterpillar

a 485hp peterbilt. 2007..
lo and hi in the diff and a ten speed.

920,000 miles.

they just rebuilt its first engine (same block heads everything), original trans, diffs, and the frame was a fat one to my eye 50 feet away.

I can't be bull****.

my dad took one to 1.2million before the odom broke, and kept driving for a few more...and that was with very hard leaf springs. :eek:
in the gas world.. impossible.
cams can do alot.
18 headbolts on 4 cyls too...:lol:

boxer3maine

09-28-2011, 08:10 PM

as you can see I painted the diff, even with two bolts on the side cover. I was going to get a diff from south dakota..but changed my mind.It works now and will only get better. I have one goofball left on this wagon to contend with, and it is the front strut mystery.

struts. I looked for two by the same company.. but rx and wagon differences..sure enough, found some. I love the appearance of the 2wd strut/rx.. here it is in photo. My own needs an rx type for 1987 reasons. The loyales etc all sat very nice cambered in the front. my own is a nut to look at now with the rear on real moving suspension. Very RX in appearance. I found their little trick, and now need to make up for the front.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-dgLwtP9fvlU/ToO2uAIPeGI/AAAAAAAACl8/57n2CTDdncY/getimage_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wRsz3eYf00I/ToO2tg0nEdI/AAAAAAAACl4/fkNFJNVyFkw/s1600-h/getimage%25255B4%25255D.jpg)
for 2wd/rx awd. this is my next pair of struts for the front
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cHcOckHsnCE/ToO2vLwPy-I/AAAAAAAACmE/APub6OCLu6k/getimage1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5-gHqpuW4iY/ToO2unRslQI/AAAAAAAACmA/d4JXb-s3W1c/s1600-h/getimage1%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
for awd/any. See the spring cup difference? the top one drops the car to height I am looking for in the front. Another oddity is that 1985-87 AWD wagons got their own strut, for no reason obvious…aside from differentiating the RX setup from the wagon. the first gen ea82 needs rx stuff to look normal.

safe to assume the 85-87 has an extreme..sits way up there. I need to remove that one year run of unique strut and get with the rx.

and sadly enough my stabs at the subaru engineering has another one: the 2wd strut is stronger just by the cup placement..no bent rod comes from those. very odd things they did..my car has all of them. Still going with my all subaru parts theme, this will work out nice.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-k0hUu6Hufss/ToS3dQ6xx0I/AAAAAAAACmM/rY_3yQhKOrQ/getimage_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bVHArUdqgLQ/ToS3cabWm-I/AAAAAAAACmI/wiCwMIMPvz8/s1600-h/getimage%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

update on struts (rear): looked up 1998 Toyota 4runner. I found this info at another forum. May try the monroe. Aligning the brackets of inner draglink and outer to be parallel, the strut rod cannot bend in the back as it is neutered. I did point out how scrawny the original subaru version is. Not enough for me. The toyota has a .5 inch rod, and 2mm bigger screw for the top..much fatter bottom. Monroe mentions fluid designed for extreme temps. identical height as subarus. Subaru spring fits right in.

All Weather Fluid: Contains special modifiers to reduce friction and ensure smooth rod reaction.
1-3/16" Bore: Larger bore than most shocks to provide more efficient and consistent control.
Nitrogen Gas Charged: For improved ride and handling, helps maintain tire to road contact by reducing aeration.
1/2" Diameter Piston Rod: Nitrocarburized rod for long service life.
Special Seal: "Self-lubricating" fluid seal designed to retain gas without excessive wear or friction.
MONROE Part # 801352

I learned of this quite some time ago. Put it all on back shelf more times than I have been hit and run. Glad to find this again..the goal met for the infos source was a flat six in a loyale..bent rear rods. I never did tell him about the binder subaru implemented.. if you parallel (via breaking rear end and welding, or cut off brackets, redrill and weld.) the inner to outer links, camber is gained and the strut reveals its scrawny reality..but never bends.
either way..not enough beef from oem. my kybs have a wet spot at 2year.

I am putting the front on hold, and going for back first.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1uvLYnA_tKI/ToTIX7v1ztI/AAAAAAAACmU/3N5bwOkpHGM/oldstrut%252520003w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgma x=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JQHBglnL4Wg/ToTIVXcEn6I/AAAAAAAACmQ/d8QKbdHGfLQ/s1600-h/oldstrut%252520003w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
for reference..here is an oem 12mm, with a 10 top.. next to the caliper opened to 13. For the same cost as replacing subaru part numbers.. the 13mm is a big gain. the kyb gr2 was a little fatter than oem.. but had to look very close, in the thousandths of an inch. 1mm and rod diameter is many times stronger. Goes with the physics of diameters on strut rods.

the 1 and 3/16ths bore.. I do not know if that is a gain. the middle rod is where some subey owners crossing the lines on the oem 12mm.
will check up on that..
I just found the kyb at 46mm for the sube..which is 1.8 inches. 1 and 3/16ths for the blue strut above must be a bad measurement in the ad (it is the retarded life and death internet). Obvioulsy well over 2 inches from here...or close enough.
will get for the center rod being much stronger anyway. The part number is for economy.. I am not holding up a jackhammering inline and an AWD diff setup in the same spot as the 4 runner does. The suby rear oem springs should be right in heaven with the economy version...and then there is the trick of ridding nitrogen and adding gear fluid if time ever comes. I have never been that cheap, but it is a great idea.

boxer3maine

09-29-2011, 06:58 PM

To do: purge the damn fuel line.

this is getting funnier and angrier all the time. its called hysteria.
:slap:

it is in a realm I have never heard these engines. getting on highway is a tight front sway and it picks right up into fourth gear. Some super realm..I thought I was outrunning the idle.. but no. it is deifintiely air bound. lack of solid fuel. I sprayed new disty at the weights, thinking unlubed as brand new.. all little things over ruled.

if the purge does not work. I really need some advice.

I keep losing idle. just shuts off. then turns back on strong whenever it feels like it.

Purging at dawn. go from there.

this was the step missing in fuel pump change and fix. all i did was purge it to solid line of fuel. this car is hypermiled to the point where the upright turn for fuel can hold an air bubble for eternity and still run.. just crazy.
with the lean gone away, there would be exhaust fake leak noise going away.. etc etc.

:unamused:

1982gl4

09-29-2011, 08:12 PM

boxer3maine

09-29-2011, 08:35 PM

My brat did the same thing. Used to starve for fuel and then die, the worse part about it was I couldn't get it running by myself. Took two people. One to hold a hand over the carb, and another to crank. Became old very quick, and did everything from new fuel pump to lines I now think the tank was messed up. And I ran a new line through the sending unit. So when the EJ is up and running, I hope that she's all good.

high pressure and multipoint clears the bubbles right up.

the loyale even had these spells, after poking nearing the fuel pump in the back, I found a leak once..all high pressure , fuel injection.
hypermiler and single source.. same result, injected or not.

a see through filter tells it like it is. this gl has been quite nice with the tank.. 2 years go by and less than a quarter of a teaspoon of brown mushy stuff is in the filter.

the carb is even gentler. I did learn of this on a 1.8 liter omni in the 80s. the purging. take coil wire off, pretend to start many times.. it may even spit the bubble (all 3 psi badness of itself :lol:)

these chores are giving me alzheimers.

the hints of what I have done this year heading into the cold, simply getting on highway.... it is quite a leap from EA as most know them. Just have to work out the finales.

tomorrow is inspection, last day of month.. I hope I am not driving around all over. I am not stopping until a garage just puts a sticker on.. it is very done and ready. :)

edit: come to think of it.. the original cam was crazy in the omni too. Same chores in exact cycles.. even the lights. rear left strut gaining a tortured focus (exhaust) All phyisics of EGR stuff of the 80s. My sube does the same things.
the loyale stuff is not allowed to do what this car did originally.. the cycles of seeming same chores (appropriately enough), ended with breaking the old fuel as a new beginning.. return line included. to me it is an amazing story.
25 th year.. and just taking it to modern flow of cleansing, after 4 headgaskets.. 134, 000 miles and an alaskan origin. I know of nothing else known to man..
18 headbolts? full cage block? self balanced? it is all of these things. Silicon lined bearings too.

I am lucky enough to catch on to the cycle really being broken owning a loyale. Subaru got the last bunch in almost correct. I actually looked forward to having what is built now for several years.
the disasters are bumps in the road.

boxer3maine

09-30-2011, 10:53 AM

All is a go.. the ticky noise on the gasket is really freaking annoying. Will go get some felpros manifold gaskets.. Again.
Idle problem (you would not believe it):
the fuel had no errors, nor ignition. I just happened to catch the fusible link in action, smoking.. there was the idle problem. All it takes is a split second to close the electric valve..and it bounces the smooth flow for minutes of fidgeting.The only way that gets hot is if loose, trying to get away. All is well now, crimped and twisted. The idle as a sure thing is very nice. Full, no boxer sound..except that damn leaky exhaust gasket. That could be associated with ea82s forever. :lol:

literally fuel injection cams, and a smaller pressure.. it is a modern car. Hypermiling is the last secret unusual.
waiting until tuesday for garage next door. Admitting this is personal is not hard to do. I have made more noise right next door, including the headgasket spewing stuff.. they have seen or heard all of it, or a chance to if looking. Exhaust, to no exhaust, I moved here with a glasspack on.. 4 years ago. That garage is where I learned of the hakkas with cords hanging out..flunked inspection. Anyway. it would be satisfying for them to get a sticker on it. :)

boxer3maine

09-30-2011, 02:55 PM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7UViiRW77NQ/ToYPE0xrtVI/AAAAAAAACmk/udqUXwwrR9c/hoses%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=8 00 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ff0vimEZWBA/ToYPCPVjYRI/AAAAAAAACmg/_CmMgmpw2X8/s1600-h/hoses%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
took out a useless purge valve, and 670 miles of hose. I took out 1327 miles already in previous venture.. appears to be 2697 miles to go. I left fuel vent functioning, and an extra return to fuel tank. The canister is all functioning as well. I was going to wait for spfi intake and the other carb to clean it up entirely.. but am not not done fighting with this one yet. Cleaned up a bit more. Still losing idle random, like a switch. All I can do is drive with the skill of keeping idle going, in my city of 12000 stops to get through center street. I may be over ruling the runt bleeder on throttle let down, as cams are bigger. A carb is a must do, except, I have had this stupid idle problem already. Changing the oil is in order. will get monday.

my first go with this, removing oem subaru plenum,.. the pile is twice as big as what you see in photo.

narrowing down via diagrams, the fuel vent, whatmnakes the canister work..and some unnecessary extras (Ie: I used an extra return to fuel tank)

this is clearly a blo through carb. The idle stuff is so close to meeting normalcy, and then it does not.

patience.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BvOj8Ah8bLU/ToY6OaAQ9QI/AAAAAAAACm0/JNWzgInWA4s/metal%252520manifold%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%2525 5D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-23C6d1HjV6o/ToY6K2xNSxI/AAAAAAAACmw/3Z5SsLE0-QI/s1600-h/metal%252520manifold%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg )
some might remember the crazy pipes for vacuum lines. this was thought to be taken out by lifting manifold. Not true. unhooked 4 bolts, tin snipped some and it all slid out from underneath. I laso removed the thermal vacuum switch. the springs in photo reveal I did get rather violent unnecessarily. Got the shallow 22mm socket over it and removed from manifold. Another little cooler by the thermostat. These pipes may have also aided in passenger HG fail.. no air at went under the intake. Wanting neutral air before intake ports is a big bonus. the pipes could recycle spark plug wires and other crazy things. Looking a bit more like an old school engine bay all the time….

A photo is in order after this stuff taken out. What a very intimidating pile of stuff to look at with the rubber hoses and the manifold.

none of it had a function even when I purchased, looking like all subaru oem. Quite odd. California emissions must have driven the engineers insane.

boxer3maine

09-30-2011, 04:34 PM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-f4aKJ37CJjA/ToYm0daQ0SI/AAAAAAAACms/Ksqx_V3hq_w/hitchifix_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-IK6ujv6xRvs/ToYmxkz2nQI/AAAAAAAACmo/HQ_1Krx2aEY/s1600-h/hitchifix%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
this is as simple as it can get.. all other lines, including metal mini pipes bolted to underside of manifold can be removed. the rest is for blo thru genius, way over complicated. leaving the middle lines in front of carb in their spots, follow manifold to thermal vacuum switch, remove all of it by straight shot connecting. When cam is big enough and smart enough.. the choke is not even necessary. the thermal switch stuff is even sillier. A better way is most welcome.
with fuel still being bizarre, this is as close as I have come to back to normal on idle. Dual vacuum advance chamber is also a must.. one stays live from the second car starts, the other kicks in only when second barrel progressed

I refuse to stay in the pulsing bent cams of the EGR days. The injection version is obviously more centered, if not exactly correct. The air bypass problem was right away.. this is all I could come up with right now, and it was unintentional. the middle vacuum lines on carb must be the bleeder helper.. simply worked to give tiny idle a chance to catch up and function...
630pm. Went for ride afte removing lines.. noticed something right away. the electrical tick noise is more towards the right bank. Everything is in where it has got to be…the tick noise dies off to final continuity. a lot of new stuff to burrow through. The idle still died after letting off..started right back up. the new nominal is 1000 rpm after letting the bleeders go at it. will drop back down. Also, the temp gauge has a lower reading. Liking that area open. It was something I learned from loyale runtimes. the gauge would read lower even headed towards overheat.. the reason was air around the thermostat housing. this engine is just getting that stuff now. The oil pressure is up.. but that was a routine for this time of year anyway.

no metallic odors, like the first time I opened those old lines.. I did make a purpose for some of them..keep them form distilling. i do smell the bombs away truck cleaner I used a year ago however...and the last car wash before head gasket fail...that was november. Very peculiar odor for the engine cleaner they had. I guess this means I am winning. I didl earn to never clean a suby engine while running after what I went through.. if I want to treat something like a caterpillar diesel, doing more than painting it the same colors is a must. :)

important note: when a sube deionizes (realeases old odors that do not coincide with today).. you killed a short circuit. low volt one. It may even be a bleed by design, that something caught onto and was not supposed to. they keep right on running anyway. This sube had wire gauged size vacuum lines running inbewteen 4 cylinders. subes get serious about that stuff. You may wonder why the EJ intake takes a big curve up before diving into head ports.. that is the reason. the EA taught them something after all.

boxer3maine

10-01-2011, 10:51 AM

narrowed down vacuum to:

one mid for the fuel canister control, check valved (helps keep it open longer- same spot and even line as oem hookup)
the purge that goes with it, also oem.
The progressive vacuum t- to vacuum advance second chamber.
For the intake, I got the vacuum can for heater controls, passenger side.
Steady vacuum advance driver (other chamber) side.
5 external vacuum uses.. as tight as this hitachi has never been. Still intermittent idle..and very very old odors of gas random. Will fill with oil, and go for another couple hundred to clear it out. It is all precisely where it has got to be. This spell the last time cleared right out.. even engine thuds changed. Assuming, as vacuum get squashed down into a deeper function, even the inside of pathways have to clean out. I do have extras in the fuel, and gumout etc. To help buoyancy as intake is more open, cooler air.. painting intake is in the plans. Got the back wiper within .25 inch of top of window.. I need all of it. Replaced front two, all is well in the rain. Car fogs right up..can’t blame open body. maybe it is too tight. New steel in new season.

as clean as I can go with the hitachi. All that is next is to simply run it. Not sure what it is cleaning, obviously intermittent.
a positive note is the exhaust in the cooler rain. I guess it needs dewpoints/humidity to finalize.

I would love to say this is new chores.. but it is by no means the first time dealing with this stuff on this engine. the lack of recycle pulse is going to simply put it in a line of runtime and keep it there this time. I know not to get discouraged just yet.

just had to wait until this place is like seattle in the rain and play the northwestern old sube fairy tale of joy. :lol:

playing with car running..
finding the spot where it wants to die.. seeing what I can do without shutting car off. I stomped real fast to the floor and let off a couple of times and kaboom. right back thru the carb. Not only that.. I had it popping out the exhaust. Wants right bank only. I am beyond guessing the cylinder that popped headgasket. heading towards lean and clean.. these little bombers have got to get out.
part of this equation a couple years ago was outright horse****. I mean literally... horse****. got a little bit of that in the exhaust odors, else just carbon monoxide rich or lean.
loyale boot is thorough cleaned.. but could be something beyond. radon?

anyway, at least found a way to slap it around and get idle back.. without shutting off and fighting with it. sometimes the fire lingers on enough to feel the engine drag.

some super unleaded, and 10w40 and go with it. if this was in a 20mpg realm..none of this would happen. I am working with a 40s mpg whistle..and changed to super clean on the air/temp side. finding things that probably sat dormant to the little ball of fire it never gets. Idle is much more full when it is engaged..can't say it enough. thinking of frigid times ahead, and even days like today, tropical like dewpoint rain. the extra flow is most welcome..while keeping hypermiler. Like I made a giant midget. :)
the old cams were quite an idiot. fighting off the cylinder remnants now..

check valve on fuel vent going into carb..no allowance back to tank. Subaru as mentioned above has the fuel tank vent going through carb, then using the float bowl exit and solenoid to function. Very clever..actually saved a line (that was supposed to be funny). the check valve helped vacuum on throttle off to idle, forcing bleeders more. Return line is for the tank anyway. the vent goes to canister indirectly. Now idle is showing signs of normal. if it does it and I catch it, I can smell the grease I used for the valve rockers. This makes sense, as the bleeder for pcv actually has a function now at top of boot. Engine sounds like a bucket of bolts.. down over a quart. Firing harder, more advance on the cams. 10 degrees versus 3 BTDC on the intake. this vacuum stuff needs to be tightened right in. It is a go.My theories on this before building was that it would not idle at all ever…hence delaying what I have built until a few weeks ago. I proved myself wrong. The extra check valves and ridding of a whole lot of non-function, it should clean up and hang in there. The white smoke from new cat is most welcome in this cool weather. The head flange on the driver side is still a noise, but should tighten. this is sincerely all I can do. the xtra noise of more than one bypass..its like a little screeching devil on the throttle let down. Not audible to normal humans.. I have to focus on mentioned bleeders (they make noise when functioning letting throttle off to idle only.) one is still spit hissing on the let down..that is the one catch by stabbing throttle quickly until it spits out the problem. bam. strong idle.

the extra volume of exhaust, really noticable. i do not know as the loyale pumped in and out this much... most likely noticing the solidlifters versus hydraulic.I can't wait to just take for granted warmups, etc etc. The recycle cams were great for starting..into 28 below is my own record. but fast going was rather strange. 7 degrees and colder was like riding into a brick wall..just because it was cold out. The loyale barreled right through. the cams did it all.

looking forward to another sticker and hopefully 8 months of not doing anything, including typing so much.:lol:
that is my routine locally.

830pm. idle snuck up on 1100. very stable since hose tinkering. the define for whatever is binding was power steering for one.. false reading on the stick. must have been a heat driven air bubble. Heater is near non existent.. continuity of the final kind not here yet. idle reading of oil pressure at normal as I remember it..been 9 months to see that. Another odd lesson derived from cam swap.. the old cams, when turning on everything, was a strain..could hear it in the belts. the new cams could care less. Another sign of power where it matters. let the zero deck thud until it don’t have to anymore..and still keeping oil low, promoting rings reseat etc. This engine is a lot like the chassis with welding. Waiting until the time of year the change happened is when it meets what you have done…a year later. 25 years can do that. Very hard old machine. I don’t know as I would go through this again…but an interesting lesson to take with me.

the changes needed this kind of cold ..again. I learned the engine is a result of the chassis after all. I should have guessed. Steel owns anything softer.

as this dials in, I seem to be typing more. :lol:
a year is not exactly a short time. 15 with the same chassis' and engines as well.

this time last year.. I knew to change the cams, to only guess to get what I am now. Good guess. the EGR stuff was removed long before, and I was challenged with a cam problem built in..did not know it. like a cat chasing its own tail. I even used the rubber stretchy shrinker belts to gain at least sometimes to powerful runs. all the while defining on my own that the cams were indeed wrong...without even knowing it until dismantling.

I hope someone builds something from my trial end errors. the EGR generation has a chance to be the greatest, due to being as simple as the ea81 generation...and no normal person would drive them fast or as a daily down the trials of highway speeds. This means they sit around until poverty gets them. me included.

I knew to never call it underdog. the facts are right there in front of us all.:)

boxer3maine

10-02-2011, 12:04 AM

core not clogged, non passive water pump, new radiator, flush, fresh coolant, new thermostat, hg.. all good. NO heat. core gets hot and sits there in a no/slow flow. these need to stay very hot to be useful.. so what I am calling hot is not enough. Going to attack this soon.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rE5EYAy2z30/TofiNad_tII/AAAAAAAACnE/gTGLBVzUGcU/loyaleheat%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ruMpk1gFB8E/TofiKC2C1eI/AAAAAAAACnA/xH6fPpyBi0o/s1600-h/loyaleheat%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
The gl ignores its own heater core…while getting hot. A battle too perfect to do anything useful. Like EGR. the loyale lit me on fire. I was looking at the loyale intake and saw the thermistor sitting where it does, blocking part of the path to radiator from passenger head. This forces more to the back of intake..hence more flow into heater core. I would like to know if the gl is different.. will check tomorrow. if the same, I will find a way to really light my GL heater core up with an idea like this loyale intake.
rockauto has these looking similar back to ea81 days, skips over my carb model as usual. I noticed there is longer than others.. this is less and more heat. the longer the sending unit, the more heat for the cabin.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/-aykyp4kF300/TofiOYEIOcI/AAAAAAAACnM/ACwslxmhhbo/hljk_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-aVmgKeJAbxI/TofiN7jgkEI/AAAAAAAACnI/hiZuLC-JM_U/s1600-h/hljk%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
longest one. this would give the most heat to the core…and two wire.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/-brpRbu6hy9w/TofiPMK0WaI/AAAAAAAACnU/SOEn1vLgsrA/gvgvygv_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-iDO9TlIBP2Q/TofiOjaS7cI/AAAAAAAACnQ/uNDb6I71vGI/s1600-h/gvgvygv%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
This appears to be a medium one
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-xwr9l96n3Uk/TofiQeslTEI/AAAAAAAACnc/ytlHjgj5EUI/87g76gg_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-puUS5rDUDHQ/TofiP-rSyCI/AAAAAAAACnY/wzJxj12hKVQ/s1600-h/87g76gg%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
short one? I will not be surprised to find the gl set back, or shorter than all of them. my own is single wire.. so the longest one does not fit my car. I could drill and recess more..maybe remove gasket. Grind surface and no drill.. washer on the end or something. plenty of engine heat. body tight. tried recirc of air manually. nothing works to bring more heat.. does it when it feels like it. such as a long term hill climb, I must be making it fall into the core more to flow. I know there is plenty of ingredients… just have to adjust it to maine.

another idea is to move sending unit to spare port on radiator, and bolt and nut the current spot to adjust exactly to what I want. tighten long enough bolt in, the nut will lock it into an adjustment to fill in the space of coolant passage regulating what goes to core with pressure. I am obviously fighting a "manly" water pump. oem version as passive allows the current setup for coolant to fall in to core more often.

today in the cool rain.. the hellacious steam coming off the hood tells me the radiator is spectacular.. the whole combination is awesome. teasing me with no heat in the cabin.:lol:

boxer3maine

10-02-2011, 12:43 PM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-oyBpS88-ovo/ToiT1iUaQRI/AAAAAAAACnk/MvOiJkV7nSU/sendingunit%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?im gmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Uvtul4ETUx4/ToiTy-zgziI/AAAAAAAACng/ChRzTfWi9Nk/s1600-h/sendingunit%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
sure enough. loyale on the right, GL on the left. Note on the gl I had to smash a 17 mm socket to get it out. Nothing fits the sending unit. the loyale is 2mm longer into the hole.. and do have a whiff of heat now. When the heavier elements of the new setup disperse, this will be a nice heater.

1mm shy of a function...seems to be said more than once for this GL. I do have a hint of heat after swapping..and the 17mm socket fits. this one is very tight right now, being all new. very long burp time. No gurgles.
purchased amor proper exhaust flange gasket for the driver side.. I have a zero deck tud, this usually gets it.

idle is very nice. solid. Still no runt mode. laying on throttle can slip a clutch or a tire. The cold start was not 3 tries as it was.. it went first go. :)

zero deck thud, and ticky exhaust. oil pressure is definitiely a micro anomoly in its electrical games. Oxide in the little hole. with pcv and everything proper, bigger.. this will clean up instead of wallow. the old engine is going to make it in prognosis. if it stays a bit noisy in the deeper base...justified.
I was wandering around parts store.. looking for those tiny clamps that go on emission hoses.. removable with pliars. Can't find any (anybody know where to get those?).
I look on the counter and there is yet another subaru headgasket sitting there. Odd. that is the third time I have gone into a parts store and found a gasket belonging to subaru sitting there. Out of curiosity I asked, it is a pre order for a 2003.
problems for the open decks aren't done yet..they do respond like the oldest ones. more torque, betters studs and bolts.

boxer3maine

10-02-2011, 02:32 PM

73.4 millimeters = 2.88976378 inches.

This is to generalize a pipe size equalling two 2 inch pipes. First, finding area of one pipe is necessary. the number 1 in inches is useless. convert to mm first.
area = pi * radius * radius
area = 3.14 * 26mm * 26mm

area = 2124 mm squared

the two pipes are combined = 4248
knowing the area of two pipes, reverse the math path treating it as one pipe.

4248mm squared / 3.14 = r *r
square root of 1352 mm =36.76 mm
36.76 *2 = 73.52 mm
73.52mm to inches = 2.88 inches
Again, this is generalization/ rounded number, very close however. Pipes are normally very very squashed since 1973, this math helps out a custom build, "real" piping. ..also this is "in diameter" (ID) measurements, maening you would round to a 3 inch pipe to get closer to goal.
:)
this website:
mathgoodies.com (http://www.mathgoodies.com/lessons/vol2/circle_area.html)

boxer3maine

10-03-2011, 05:25 PM

today added some lucas to power steering.. a claim of a guarantee to stop my silly problem. there is a coolness that was not there after smelling a machinist type oil get kicked out, and smelling like a pine tree. This is good news. Will count on no drops from steering in 300 or less miles.
The leak is that stupid.

tried a company that really made me angry a few years ago for inspection ..
bangor tire company.
I just sent an email to the head of inspections at maine state police with my formal complaint.
I also gave him a heads up that there may be more.
Explaining my integrity again is not necessary.

they even claimed I had a coolant leak, and not only that.. claimed my subframes were "rotted".
A belligerent waste of time, and getting a formal complaint to state police.

they did not even cut the sticker diagonally.. this means they faked the real inspection.

if anyone knows the young punks working there, feel free to tell them companies can't save integrity.

drove around looking for other garages.. one was an old guy, very busy. Working by himself. did not get an appt.
Another one was where I went once already.. also a stab at the floor arm, driver side (very odd coincidence..twice in the same day). that gets a try at 9 am tomorrow.
I am going to document all of this.

also tomorrow is the place next door.

I tried out some copper high temp silicone for the exhaust gasket.. lo and behold.. the noise is not even an exhaust leak. oh my freaking god. :unamused:

the #4 cylinder really is burning some oxide. I can smell it. the snappy twacker must be the valves on freaking fire. Been there done it. the egr cams as a prerequisite is certain doom. this setup now gets it out. very nice.

between power steering instructions and the new seats of new engine stuff, I realized.. this has not gotten the 500miles a new engine break in is supposed to get.

very nice runner. Can't wait for the sterile japanese operating room for 2.65 inch stroke to get what it wants (that is a real battle). the zero deck thud is already calming down. I did remember pennzoil with the writing on the bottle "40% cleaning first bottle". I will continue with that for some time. Not many claim to be claeners..mostly they are the cakers pretending aluminum does not need to shed hairs like a dog. :)

boxer3maine

10-03-2011, 10:03 PM

75mph, not far from my place. The cool fog, leftover oxide, new stuff scraping its way to happy someday..this weather really gets it. I used to seek it in the summer , very early morning by the ocean. Only if I made some engine changes.It was nice to go 75 legally..which is probably 80. :) this sube never ever does it all at once... the quick changes are for iron. Shameful thing to say about subarus play doh alloy.
My own is a concrete brick dried a long time ago.

102 miles, medway exit and back. Very fogged in some spots..slowed down to 68 or so. 75 on my speedo is something else closer to 80. the highway being baron...40 miles or so is a privelage here in new england. Sprites of rice, bragging of speed... don't belong out there. Another reason for building what I have...tons stronger. Could do that for days onnominal throttle. 3500 and beyond is a fuel user like all machines...but does enter another realm of power.
I knew the gas was going to disappear..but unlike the egr cams in the dirty oxide mode..this one hung onto the twenties. As #4 mystery turns out..it seems it is a super cylinder..even more than #3. the draft hitting the more open stainless mandrel right out of the head is almost a whistle. No pulse. I knew this from loyale runtimes... I knew there was no recycle built in. The egr cams on rubber stretchy belts used to get the good time random..always a fight however. back to idle was locmotive amongst itself more than anything. A centered boxer breaks world records. We aren't allowed to have that. Most likely because of retarded auto inspectors. The cams now are good. About all i can do to maximize without evenmore custom work. "Custom work." An auto inspectors wet dream to destroy.

The loyale did this too at this time of year. The ECM loved this coolness. The carb simply keeps it with no moods. another opposite to stereotypes... like subaru alloys.

This ride was my last straw to dialing in. I am not getting underneath again. Extreme work is extreme results. this is not an 87 honda with a 1/2 inch tailpipe. I am ignoring retarded inspectors.. and I am just going to keep searching until stickered. Line is drawn... a bit more patient I would challenge one or more of these local inspections stations all the way to court.

back to some notes..
the heater is frigid. nothing at all right now. the body welded in to the extent I have made no fog but me. Compression on the alloy. like cooling and on fire all by itself.

A grumble in the front left..rear end. I knew I compressed the steel this summer. Waiting for this cold and a spin balance got it right in..after 35 miles anyway. Very nice to drive. the balance is somewhere in the hundreds.. a speed I won't be going.

and the super balance of the wheels are challenged . but still wins. The lead weights have to go. In fact the routine of plucking them off my dads rig wheels was recent. I wonder if it is the autumn leaves chemistry that attacks the weights.

the garage next door strangely used alot of them. I may just skip over the inspection there and keep driving until reality is found. For years of knowledge.. I seem to hang onto more just by actually using my car rather than picking at a piece of flaking paint to flunk 36 pounds of mig wire..

[/URL]
114 miles according to the map. This means about 100miles at 75mph. Legally. I was looking at [URL="http://chartsbin.com/view/2038"]this map on chartsbin (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-F7jgtpqeSiI/Toykl7POt8I/AAAAAAAACno/h6E1P9-RfCE/s1600-h/speedo%252520004w%25255B3%25255D.jpg) .com about speeds and the world. America overall is not only the fastest in more areas.. the length of the road at higher speeds is longer and bigger. Germany has its autobahn.. but it is not large..and very risky. My little sube is doing something worldly to hang on to a standard of 75-80mph for 100 miles. Hardly bothered..the 1 barrel mode and my toes playing with the next realm. I ponder 90mph if to keep a two barrel open. Been doing 75mph for years.. but now legal I like to mention it and document. Look mah. 1781cc with no turbo.

the link at chartsbin is pretty cool. The epiphany of the rarity of the standard I am building out of the size I am building it may explain the weirdness about my car and inspections.

I am setting it up as 1 barrel and 90mph nominal eventually.

boxer3maine

10-04-2011, 06:20 PM

Today met a real winner again...

He told me he would put a sticker on if I adjusted the back brakes. I said the back brakes work to the point of being audible.
Even offered for him to drive it.

then he got angry. I did not even tell him this was a 1987 not a 1907 ..self adjustable back brakes have been out a lot longer than my sube. My sube is just part of the standard.
then he hung himself.. real smart one.

"your ebrake does not work because the back brakes are not adjusted."
Not only did he hop in my car knowing the brake is what kept it.. on his ten percent grade hill of alot to move it into his garage bay..he had the gaul to say something that stupid.

this is when I calmly said "mister, you just hung yourself. My ebrake works on the front brakes.."

as the car sat there in hillside garage without a level spot in the lot..with ebrake on, car running.

He then swore. I said, "I am calling the police.I don't like people swearing at me."

this is where my car is at now..no new sticker, old one still on. Some other guy took the 12.50 before inspection was over. Never asked for registration.

Waiting a callback from a gary chapman. Guru car inspector for state police..

the garage, the other loser from previous years, is at the corner of emmc and state street bangor maine.
the guy who did the hang himself is the owner or head of something. I remember him.
Confidence is not the only part of my suby inspection, nor a wishful thinking. I best get a sticker, or I am climbing the ranks of state police.

moving onto other things.. like a heater in the cold coming our way. I insulated pipe with a premade piece from my spare intake as a template..easier to work on. I then remembered what I wanted to do on a non-passive pump when I got one... Adding a check valve at the water pump. That will get some heat. No mixing. :devil:

meanwhile.. I sit patiently. The garage next door is willing to take me in on thursday..not sure if state police will have me hold off or not.

if this car is confusing to an inspector... they best take the license away.

Something I may do...if this tries to be a complex situation more than it already is.. email the html address of this thread. bagsof reciepts. Not sure the strange focus of my less than 1.8 liters.

Dear sir... can you identify what I have not done to my subaru?:eek:

matt00rs25

10-05-2011, 12:23 AM

so they failed you for the ebrake not holding?

boxer3maine

10-05-2011, 07:13 AM

so they failed you for the ebrake not holding?

there is no fail.

everything works. That is why I called state police.
Another odd thing.. they do not give the diagonally cut across the sticker after "fail" (I memorized the pdf file with maine state rules for class C). I am getting a hard time, and that is illegal.

I have gone to police in the past.. the ****heads may be part of the retards cult with licenses knowing who I am and what I have done in the past to stop the falsity. The guy at bangor tire looked like a crack head that never quite recovered. The guy yesterday looked fresh off the minority boat. Hiding in new england picking and choosing for thier own separated clan is not going to happen. Prejudice is always the first step in their drirection.

I miss the welders garage across the river already..also on display for 200k cars daily. This makes what I have done and integrity even dumber to challenge with stupidity.

The BS with what I found local .. it has got to stop. Duct tape and bondo is somebody elses car.
This year the car can get a sticker at any place.. the hard time has been deciphered. They cannot dish it out by law.

The first hints of it are
attempting rocket science with bull****
claiming falsity about the steel grade
or what that guy did yesterday. outright lied to my face.

silly battle goes on.

speaking of silly battle.
When I think of a garage, and having ever been there.. I think of what they "felt" about this or "thought" about that.
like the garage next door.. the guy is well over six feet, car looked like a flintsone cartoon after he gets in it.
I am going to give two turns to the ebrake just for his scale of "feel". Ignoring function may be the biggest mistake...going on "feel" is also illegal.

if the garage does deep repairs, as well as inspects.. I even made a list of subaru oddity..if a welders garage, I never mention the steel. (We all seem to be a wavelength known to a stronger caveman - don't need to say much)
anyway, for this year.. this is what I may give inspector, scribbled on paper.. mentions the t304 header and sleeves, headgaket, cams, water pump, oil pump and right rear welds.. the rest spans four years. Subaru oxides, not a hazard..ignore noises at exhaust.

boxer3maine

10-05-2011, 02:49 PM

Today I adjusted the e-brake for the garage next door..I remember taking subarus noisy clicker cushion spring out of the cables mix to add a bigger one in diamter..same gentle squishy. I put the original back in for no freaking reason other than paranoia. I guess I do feel discriminated.

the original noise is a simple click when releasing the handle because the spring sucks and does a last second pop to content when handle is released.

seems cold is climbing in fast.. even the avid TRZ on the well scrubbed peugeot beads are going to get some air for the shrinker deflation.
Got an email from a LT at state police... and was told I'd be reached ina few days. meanwhile.. I go about an inspection. the car is my daily.
some more stuff..
adjusted clutch to mate with mechanical hill holder a bit more..acts as hydraulic cushion for the fork…hence the clutch too. Tightened emergency brake to very tough..tomorrow is yet another try at inspection.

I almost forgot the trick with the clutch..it can't shake around or it will go crazy. the mechanical hill holder is something I do not like.. but realized it fakes the feel of hydraulic when it is tuned in to clutch fork.. this means it suppresses concentric dial ins as a fluid shock absorber ..and I am dialing in to the biggest change this engine ever got. The cold really gets it in there. I will tinker with that some more..need to hold on to all that power I made. :)

Thinking of all the jackasses that don't even know how to look at this car with an engine surrounded by steel.. the guys next door were cool about that. I hope I meet thier expectations. The only older classics I have seen there are a mint resto'd mercedes and a lime green monster porsche from the 70s.

1987 in bangor maine is a 1960 something in arizona.

boxer3maine

10-06-2011, 10:24 AM

this year is a month late for frost..
the not exactly nerdy approach to cold starts happens now, before too frigid to be humanly a mechanic. The newer engine guts , many changes this year.. I have to pay attention to <=32F for the first few starts.

sparked up and popped out exhaust, very electrically alive.. all the changes are out loud. this one needs a thousand mile run.

the EGR cams used to start right away, stall... very gentle. This one fights to the point of a pop..and cannot wait for choke to open. :up:
the loyale timing on a mini -steroid. :lol:

the rear valves on #4 made some noise at drop to 700, went away soon.. that is when I knew this car has to make a perfection with itself.. the new distributor has never seen an engine..adding newbiness to a quarter century is going to take awhile.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lTaJjQ1YA1w/To6UwpH7WtI/AAAAAAAACn8/2C4nlqOOSTI/crazy_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4RC9snClP-8/To6UvFphNtI/AAAAAAAACn4/mF-zjSc7AH0/s1600-h/crazy%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

idle rock solid with a tap to 700. this will be its new run in the coldest and (hottest) of times.

I do have a vid, but keep it to myself.

meanwhile inspection is giving me a sick stomach. I have no errors..
if someone can guide me to custom car builder bangor brewer with a inspector license... they would know much further into common sense this is one no bull**** little sube.:unamused:

boxer3maine

10-06-2011, 04:18 PM

happy 25th anniversary to the most stubborn pile of tin and engine still running..

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fWN3aNzTt-M/To4J5Y4FNXI/AAAAAAAACn0/u9Tu6p4P9DQ/inspection%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-r_2vxBfhXlk/To4J17siCPI/AAAAAAAACnw/zKgJTUNzR-4/s1600-h/inspection%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
You know.. I don’t speak out loud of my car. hardly ever. I choose the net for this unique oddball in history. I suppose something personal must happen eventually. The garage next door failed me two years ago for steel. I understood..and busted ass with a lot of weld. Been living here for four years and one month..same car. That must be at least 1000 times the mechanics, like neighbors, see me coming and going. I wanted a real sticker for my old sube, and the garage next doors approval. Tried the garage right nearby again, now 2011. Today, got talking about the headgasket fail..right in front of the garage is where I made quite a mess…in the winter. Not easy going for mechanics. We related about that. A lot of events along the way witnessed by them. He remarked “you have more hours under the hood than you are driving.” A huge relief to not only talk about the bad times..but laugh at it as well. We both agreed, an engine is next. I hope to keep it as a routine if I am not moved by next year. I was going to another place where they did a lot of weld and grinding..I outlasted the business. Am so very relieved that the work does get a states approval…and not far away. 25th year is december 2011. I just knew I could make the little sube survive.
The previous inspection on state street is still challenged, and am waiting for state police to resolve.

I was really relieved to read the list of inspection items on thier wall. I am truly discriminated against.I pass the whole thing with my own flying colors in reality. As it turns out... the actual framing of a car can even be drilled for whatever reason, and still not be a fail. I went about it almost to a paranoid level with solid seam welds and baffles where subaru had none..and knew to never give it any openings bigger than subarus for a finale.

live and learn. If you get a hard time and know the work is good for inspection.. find another station.

this car here could bend a flat six...cuz it ain't letting it have a squishy engine for a long time to come..
yet another ride in the cold... the new stuff really has my curiosity. instead of a bellow and climbing rpm.. it just gets up and goes... slip in the clutch included. The egr days are gone.. my age won't be forgetting. nor will a few of my teeth.

anyhoo..moving on. I found a check valve that will fit the bill of the heater core I need to roast.
placing right at the water pump. plenty of heat, gauge reveals it of course. the fuller cylinders are a good leap beyond the barking thunder midget this started life off as. This will add to a very good heater. I am looking forward to headers very sealed..hints of it already take all bellows away being a larger diameter and balanced. the outer layer of heads separate from the inner this time of year.. even without engine changes to settle in. This year is doing more with that out of necessity, than I have ever burdened the old engines with.The old radiator used to swell the whole engine in the summer..smack the valves round this time of year shrinking it all back together. the crazy dynamic could sterlize an operating room. It is a unique reward for subaru engines. Most just go together, and you drive. This sube is not like that..

15th winter upon me and an ea82. Already thinking of the season of warmth to daydream over.. the expansion part of the cooling fail will never happen again on the setup I have given this. The cams are actually a big part of cooling...lets go of exhaust. the all copper rad is only a bonus.

98Wagoon

10-07-2011, 02:33 AM

congrats on the sticker!

boxer3maine

10-07-2011, 09:01 AM

congrats on the sticker!

thanks.
Some things don't get put into perspective by certain people. these formalities have to happen.

I mentioned at least a thousand times in previous post.. coming and going since sept 2007, at my current address.

the real number is closer to 1500 one way to leave... 1500 more times coming back. And this just the last four years ..I started with the car when it was "young", at 21. :lol:

I built extreme. For a reason.

the sticker is the real thing. This city only plays games if the inspector is a bit on the paranoid side. I suppose that is better than just letting things go if not confident.. but that there is the emotion stuff again (they have no right to "feel" about your car). the checklist for inspection is actually so easy... nothing to be intimidated about, taking on an older car.

Thinking ahead for even the weird guys with inspection licenses. subarus connection of rear brake to the crossmember tube, over to each rear cylinder..very bad. the only serious mishap resulting in danger by subaru oem, and I lived it. Popped the brake lines. First welds toughening the chassis may have triggered it.
I have two new brake lines as an extra long letter "S" shape to act as a steel flexible spring in subtle moves, to move in any direction the crossmember bushings have to go. No actual moves to measure.. but obvious enough subaru made something to snap at subarus own design..I outdid it, just by city thrashing. I simply found the error. I actually liked that part of serious modification. Maybe try for a rubber brake line like the front brakes get, humor appearance...and then again, it has a risk of squish between chassis and tube. I know I have the best combo as it is.
Easily defendable.. I like where it is at, and it did outrun subarus small bit of lack of thinking.

These are the only things that can be bothered, but not for long. Real sticker is inevitable.

It is a real shame to think a ninny results from real fixes. Those inspectors really have to go. out out out.

boxer3maine

10-07-2011, 03:39 PM

remembering the clamps for fuel lines and new paths.. the 3psi tends to mimick alot of the fuel injection the cams came from. This taught me draft timing effects fuel and where it wants to go.

I found a pile of stainless clamps oem subaru that went to the spfi system and transferred them onto the carb lines. This seems a simply unnecessary thing to do, until deciphering some weird problems. Subtle, nothing danger'd.. but enough to make a change.

the oem clamp on the main fuel line..lo and behold allowed line to rotate at full tighten. Not tight enough. the higher grade spfi clamp really got it. These clamps are not lke the ribbed line diggers you get at the parts store. This may have added to the loss of prime after longer shutdown. although check valved it does not lose, even with old clamps. Return line busy.. away goes the little fuel injected timed carb a bit safer.

Also swapped for spfi unit throttle spring.. tougher..identical neutral length, perfect swap.

not much else to speak of. I measured a spare 2wd strut I have and going to measure it to strut in car.. if the 2wd is shorter.. all I need to do is get one more subaru 2wd strut swap the whole thing over.

as some might remember... these cars are so short in wheelbase.. when you drop the front, the back and gains positive camber.:lol:
just what I am looking for... it seems to be an inch, a little more.. it is in fact missing 2wd/rx struts for the front.

edit: just checked measurement.. 1 5/8ths lower if to go 2wd strut. So one strut needed..keeping 4x4 springs on top. This will square pipes up to earth, add camber negative to front (tuck the perfect fit tires inside fender edge), take a load off steering track, force oil drain more towards front of ea82 (center pcv and delocalize heat going backwards). this may even push the heater core to a win on the hot side...
would be cool to find one at a junk yard. I want it worn (don't ask :)).

boxer3maine

10-07-2011, 06:51 PM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-6l6dwg316Q4/To-BUftAuzI/AAAAAAAACoE/FVpLltO7iNY/checkvalve%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3OBhesMOCaM/To-BR3PaCTI/AAAAAAAACoA/VGGDqdfzl3I/s1600-h/checkvalve%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

check valve. rummaging through stuff at lowes in brewer maine (big place they have there) I found this check valve, and some pipe and cement. total cost: $12.50. Looking at the situation a bit more… subaru has the water pump side on an upper hose, and a hot one on the lower… the upper cold one is insulated. Something backwards there. Regardless.. this valve has some mass, and can withstand a lot more psi than the little subes manly water pump tries to dish out. When this works, there will be no mixer.. the core will be as hot as the coolant. getting it to work…I hope I don’t need to give up the stant stainless at 180F for hotter. I don’t think I will have to..will see tomorrow after trying this out.

1/2" PVC Check Valve Socket

Corrosion-resistant PVC
Prevents backflow
Minimum flow pressure 2 PSI
Available in 1/2 In. - 2 In.

the pipe is rated for 600psi at 23C..so there does not seem to be much to worry about as far as strength. Claims to be 1/2 inch.. but that is clearly a falsity. closer to the 5/8ths ID needed no doubt.No gurgle from a larger valve is promising as well. once the hot owns the core.. it can only get through on the level straight away after the exit...and continue, or nothing at all. :)

boxer3maine

10-08-2011, 11:18 AM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-E_SF6e3PC3A/TpBnwM4fyvI/AAAAAAAACoM/64GZY6bmc3Y/checkvalvein%252520002w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?i mgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-mQtaKPI2Uk4/TpBntV3nmKI/AAAAAAAACoI/jApFeivX9JQ/s1600-h/checkvalvein%252520002w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
The burn in still took awhile.. but is the hottest heater ever. when giving throttle it does not get overthrown by the cool water pump side. it locks it out to stand its ground..as planned before installing. This is the hottest core ever for this sube. The most stubborn, have not been able to explain it. I still blame physics of chassis paint..allowing to compress and loosen..all at times when heating and expanding is needed, this car goes too tough the other direction. Having had 2 white subarus before this..with no heat errors. This one is pumping more, firing harder..bigger in every way. Bizarre contrast to have no heat on the hottest engine doing the most work..the cleaning process has been four years.
Aiming car slight down hill (I know it needs 2wd struts).. the heat came right in with no drama.. took a very long time to get to very hot.. but that climb did not quit..and that is the goal to win it. The lockout was indeed strangely important for this one. I felt the battle right at the two sides of the valve.. the hot side wins. As predicted.

the big change in less words: as throttle is given the heater core does not get raped by the super coolingI have setup for this..check valve locks it out. if chack valve has to work, with lockout... the heat gets its way after letting off throttle. Win win. This was a very stubborn *****.

the pump and radiator combo...no leaks, the bleeder thermostat. 13psi in battle is not even the correct measurement for what that heater core had to mix up to flow positive.. it hung there in perfection.

the cavitation stuff, or even warping can happen after headgasket fail. I stayed patiently in the car awaiting odors or creakers of metal movement... there was none. Just simply stubborn at error free.

a realistic theory , I cannot rule out, is the welding itself.. if the metal contracts, it has to learn that the negative it just heart attacked to with welder on the chassis someplace, has to retrain its own continuity to flow. Fluid does win eventually.. but metal is tougher than fluid, takes awhile. :)

I then dug further to realize the events happening at the heat are not abnormal. The radiator shipped airless to keep it beautiful, thie means an element heavier than air..and where is the heater core for us, but at the bottom..because humans and this car are not meant to be together :)..anyway, that is where a heavy element will sit if not forced out.
Brass needs to interact with aluminum to create a very tough oxide..and what I did with check valve was simply over ruling the non-passive design I gave it in the cooling (it never lets up, always pressured to pump..no teapot gurgles like oem, unless air bubbled)

as this goes faster down the road..the pump is going to hit the check valve even harder..because the cold side of radiaotr is even colder with air going through.. which means the block route that feeds the core from passenger side is going to get more pressure...and of course this means expansion heat pressure will over rule the check valve.. no cat chasing its own tail. Thank engineers for check valves. I hope to be winning against an upside down ice storm..have not had a machine yet that does. My das rigs do, starting in the late 90s...they win it all. I stayed inspired to fix this old one. I want steam climbing off the roof in defrost mode...

boxer3maine

10-08-2011, 05:51 PM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-M8w_BSABcqA/TpDErD4kijI/AAAAAAAACoU/dIMVxUMBhuM/grillgutted%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?im gmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-uVRIF0ZVNMs/TpDEoWDhJ9I/AAAAAAAACoQ/psL7F7Hp4kc/s1600-h/grillgutted%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Not forgetting the spare grille..the freak warm 48 hours and the grille thread got me off my butt for yet another last minute chore.. I’d like to call this an extra, but it is not. gutted and strengthened..flat blacked with rustoleums “trim and bumper” paint. I did have a plan for this some time ago, and now getting it done. once an all metal radiator was installed, this grille was also going in..as you see it.It dries flat. Rustoleum and my particular year sube really mate.. with hellacious odors along the drying path..but has not failed yet. head on bumpers hanging in the wind, etc.. loves the old subes plastic. The actual appearance is hinted off to the left of photo, else it is fresh paint right now.
silverscoobs paint job on his own grille got me motivated. :)

I do enjoy every day thinking of something else i forgot.. but it has been a long 10 months for me and this car. I am hoping this is just a finalizing symbol of the season.
the ride to paint store..the heater is ready without the game playing, the valve kicks it in long before thermostat opens.. coincides with my theroy the ea is a very hot engine..no matter the thermostat. this grille is common sense. the rx was a turbo and had a more open grille.. this one fires harder than any factory version. My own grille is fitting, like alot of my own things in my own subaru.

98Wagoon

10-08-2011, 05:56 PM

Gretsch308

10-08-2011, 06:10 PM

Fantastic job on the grill! Definitely need to see it on the car!

boxer3maine

10-08-2011, 06:12 PM

that grille will look good I think. the check valve was an intersted idea. it makes a lot of sense, keeping the fluid from draining back etc.

Id like to see a pic of the car with the grille on. Im sure there will be some coming soon. it reminds me a bit of mine..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v449/mrangerroy/2011-06-04_18-43-04_679.jpg

those all look good, the subes.

I remember one year, I painted one flat black..maybe primer. was in a hurry, even left it with finger prints, threw it in the car.. I had 3 broken ones, had to do something. I was in a store with windows seeing the parking lot and the hillbilly grille as flat and dark caught my eye.

I just installed now, fiber filler still in its working stages... want the cage to mate exactly to subes front end..dry hard there. The orem logo is that of aloyale.. but preserving the 1987 one was not a bad idea anyway.

BRB.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uKzcmdtxb4s/TpDMMYOONkI/AAAAAAAACoc/O4wL-xUZNt4/grille%252520002w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax= 800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pPUAYGVJdmw/TpDMJ9vK_uI/AAAAAAAACoY/Uw2L4IPQgq8/s1600-h/grille%252520002w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

this gains shades of pink metallic as well (it has grown on me :) ) the more contrast the better. this old one looks primitive, and abit hacked with it open..and I donlt care. function over form as they say....

98Wagoon

10-08-2011, 06:39 PM

looks good. theres something about a blacked out grille on a car that Ive always liked.

boxer3maine

10-08-2011, 07:14 PM

looks good. theres something about a blacked out grille on a car that Ive always liked.

definitely simply real.

I was reminded a few days ago, spotted that ford pickup they got selling wider as a rally looking baja.

all black where things get smashed. just common sense.

no lipstick on a pig.. my car had all those negative thoughts.:lol:

boxer3maine

10-08-2011, 08:03 PM

I just bought this beautful addition (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220832691644?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)for my big bad scary sube.

for $4.85
:up:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-FdKecLj8f6Q/TpDj5RqBvMI/AAAAAAAACok/TvsgFXfIa1U/0_1002796753_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-5tETDe95rMc/TpDj3hSRwXI/AAAAAAAACog/PtdZaGNq_6w/s1600-h/0_1002796753%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
$4.85? why not. Thinking of the rochester 2gc or an old monojet.. and my boot. the hood is exact right now.. but will be too low with an american carb. This goes as flat black as well

being it is only 7.25 inches wide... it would look just right on my tiny sube. :D

hiprsha666

10-08-2011, 08:28 PM

You should paint your car black to match the grill. It would look badass.

Gretsch308

10-08-2011, 08:35 PM

Grill looks good on the car! Even if it is pink!! :hide:

boxer3maine

10-08-2011, 08:38 PM

You should paint your car black to match the grill. It would look badass.

I am old enough to accept the pink when it emrges.:)

it is a rarity.
one year only.

the rheostat of how broad the spectrum goes still gets me today.

blood red, light red, pinkish champagne, plain brown, dark brown.. metallic.

garnet must be part of it. There is a reason 25 years sneaks up on some.

the hood scoop is a silly item I avoid... I found the carb with the boot has a rub spot on the hood (like my loyale)..now I can smash it, simply cover it cheap hood scoop (no function)

boxer3maine

10-09-2011, 10:52 AM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-TxpKlLvZtoc/TpGzo7X_nmI/AAAAAAAACos/kWxMsxbwqd8/grillefinal%252520002w_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?im gmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JZI6qbx7wSo/TpGzleNKTpI/AAAAAAAACoo/qCW65Mj1PXg/s1600-h/grillefinal%252520002w%25255B6%25255D.jpg)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-IJoSFuCP-7g/TpGzuzdiWAI/AAAAAAAACo0/nAMK_sPA_Ns/grillefinal%252520003w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?im gmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-y0EtaYJwzfE/TpGzrk8gAJI/AAAAAAAACow/z22lNKhHBmg/s1600-h/grillefinal%252520003w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
more work to finalize it..did not like it open. The $1.28 cent spent on the check valve piping had 5 feet left over. PVC. So, I opted to make something work. The arch probably upside down to most front end appearances.. my sad face grille. Rivets, sheet metal.. and few simple moves made this flexible… yet brick. I had to bend some tabs on the car mount points to realize the grille has never been straight sitting. I made the grille straight, the car showed me where tabs were not, when mounting.
This also goes along with hinting that the engine needs more than factory. Not that many pay attention to these things

note the sight of headlamp to side of grille. All my subes of this generation seem to be missing something there. there is brackets with accessories I have never seen utilized, also in the grill area. May make use of them for something.
the pvc is not completely enclosed, I have a tiny draft at both ends, and a notch in the middle. the simple sheet metal brakcets I made, and riveting both ends and the middle out of sight, made this much stronger than subarus flexible mishap. The fiber fill enclosed any small gaps, and looks like it all belongs together.

boxer3maine

10-09-2011, 06:01 PM

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DdOyIR4WYtc/TpIVwe8bnJI/AAAAAAAACo8/_n4iwjq2E-U/ubeoct2011%252520025w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-w4ze2kvE3Gg/TpIVtnEyTqI/AAAAAAAACo4/8nNjt6ADVBM/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520025w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
I did some of this in 2007. The turning point for negative to positive stops steel in time. The glob is 3 years, I gave the door a quick weld. I can go about these to beautiful anytime.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aGhIUajS5K0/TpIV2aDq3oI/AAAAAAAACpE/kk12oAh4SHI/ubeoct2011%252520011w_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-XdJ9YcjOoq8/TpIVzaiYUEI/AAAAAAAACpA/RWWmPXo_kuc/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520011w%25255B6%25255D.jpg)
This was one of the turning points to sube kicking out instead of in. Daylight under that intake is heaven.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PsX14Cmji1w/TpIV7mNCE3I/AAAAAAAACpM/aNcKcBxBrac/ubeoct2011%252520020w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Y9GxsKU7bVg/TpIV40KhX7I/AAAAAAAACpI/ZFnWfITbas4/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520020w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
30,000 miles since purchase. The past year has been the least miles..and most work.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_lGz9YLMwCs/TpIWDC51qwI/AAAAAAAACpU/S2AWP5KS1n8/ubeoct2011%252520014w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wI4BY4HxlUY/TpIV-SXM6XI/AAAAAAAACpQ/czkADOSh0k8/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520014w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Check valve under the spare. I felt the heat today acting as a bulldozer to keep me warm. As warm as the temps got.. this afternoon… can’t hide what is coming.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YerOGckAeEE/TpIWIn0zYbI/AAAAAAAACpc/NdMQ10Tggxg/ubeoct2011%252520023w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Nag3YyZzLLw/TpIWFz6vfvI/AAAAAAAACpY/bUjiZJOXw3A/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520023w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Looking forward to a warmer cabin. As cozy as it appears..with 5 gears extra.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-x0SZQjwR-ZU/TpIWOPaR3TI/AAAAAAAACpk/YXMmIVi1uQQ/ubeoct2011%252520007w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9slaQyS0RWI/TpIWLbot2sI/AAAAAAAACpg/woyD1ZkY5Ug/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520007w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
it took a lot of work to hold those five gears extra…

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KXWF6mBN-Qk/TpIWVFLBBvI/AAAAAAAACps/Z9ExgtX_lU4/ubeoct2011%252520017w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-juVTS2z1T0c/TpIWRpw2WoI/AAAAAAAACpo/myjLl9VSLJc/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520017w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
I learned the grille has a function..top edge acts as a mixer on good radiators..to bring in more air, like a primer of sorts. The boot was a reassuring addon..all weather is to be no second guessing.
ready to drive more than ever. The chore list for 2010 to 2011 is the most intense…and yet no year went by without at least one. Dropping some lucas in on the rack may be a routine for some time. Some near future chores for stance..welding is finally locked in. Suspension can be tinkered with. This years inspection was the most confident ever…and where I finally got one has inspector mechanics as witnesses to the worst of this car’s tragedies. rear end broke, two occasions..one left side, one right.. the gas line ruptures, and headgasket. the water pump spewing, front main exploding, power steering..all of it an eye catcher or making noise. I did not mention all the exhaust systems…the hit and run..backing in with a banged up bumper. It was personal to have this inspected right next door. Starting off with a 05-06 sticker, to 06-07 to 07-08, to 08-09, 9-10, 10-11, 11-12. Seems a lot more inspections than driving. 7 stickers for five years.

quite a leap this year. I had a goal of 25th anniversary..structure complete. Met the goal. in realistic cost to someone else...wow. I don't want to know. I am glad to have gotten personal with this, all my own.

oct 2006- oct 2011 ..and 25th year in one month.

boxer3maine

10-10-2011, 08:52 AM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pw1e9ilSuQM/TpLl5gHcBWI/AAAAAAAACp0/h95cpZICl5g/grillepegs%252520004w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-r79MC1-_Idg/TpLl3Mjo8xI/AAAAAAAACpw/Kc-C4K-RSIs/s1600-h/grillepegs%252520004w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
the peg within the rubber washer..lucky fit. I noticed there is no space between the grille and bottom pegs to the front metal. the oem peg cover does nothing to stop paint rubbing..and also equals static. Aside from the little thoughts of static.. this will help grille stand it’s ground. pun intended. The soft rubber wrapping fitting peg inside came from my one of my computers cases. The middle pegs on the suby grilles of this generation have all been broken clean off..as if premeditated.
I waited until installed, and slid the third middle one with super silicone (same company that makes crazy glue). Grille is sagging in the middle on all the 3 I have. this perked up under pressure..with a soft landing. And the nerdy fact of this.. it is like adjusting the pitch in an airplane in flight. I can spot the grill many feet away..the space or lack of one included. This should be my final tinkerings with this “simple” chore.

another freak warm day... thinking of little things that need warm time to dry, the grille is an annoying one.. all fixed. The top two bolts that hold it to car, I have tight with nuts and bolts and washers. these came installed with push pin plastic..add that to pegs that vibrate, or move with no space, plastic on metal...well. I am glad I finally worked this over. it has only been 14 years. :lol:

The rubber washers are a freak coincidental fit...found on my antec 2600 pc builders box as feet.

boxer3maine

10-10-2011, 05:42 PM

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cG5N9Ix9FvM/TpNkm2_AgXI/AAAAAAAACp8/RtxOPZR3BmI/grillespace%252520002w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?im gmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-z6GJT0QWm1Q/TpNkj1f80qI/AAAAAAAACp4/QLRA-YgxhPE/s1600-h/grillespace%252520002w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
the spacers puffed out the middle in a line matching the hood as well.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-1ekcf5QVxeg/TpNkuzgotXI/AAAAAAAACqE/KfAmqTihCc4/grillespace%252520004w_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?im gmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3M5tDGjnY0Q/TpNkqt3_cMI/AAAAAAAACqA/Xsk2D3cMJJ0/s1600-h/grillespace%252520004w%25255B6%25255D.jpg)
more babble from the past.. that I never got to. As the rear end tightens into a dense weld, camber is gained..and a very strange stance. The front end is still bowlegged and retarded to look at. The one year front struts for the EA generation are in this car (go figure), and they are the tallest. As weak as the rear camber may appear to some people (I used to think that meant weak), it needs to be mated to an RX front end strut (2wd). Now the front end, as I wrote a few years ago, needs the 2wd front struts to be normal, and 4wd for the back. Being a "12/86" manufacture stamp.. this means a hack job by subaru (first gen joke). the following years are much more gentle at the rear crossmember, 12/86 is the last of something. I had to make this one gentle with a crack and a twist each side...the reward is that it is extended a bit farther than the loyale generation that followed. Simply said, it is rx with a locked trailing arm geometry by factory. I took the lock out..but did not guess a racer stance as a result. Now I have to work with a couple of different models of subaru to put this one as whole. I even found other japanese cars of the same year.. looking for springs. The nissan 240sx of the late 80s is a good source. the oem photos and the lowering springs...reminds me of this sube. they even sat up like a clown car in the front by oem..coincidentally dropping 1.5 inches fixes it (identical to this sube). I learned a long time ago to seek generational anomolies and not just a brand name, especially among japanese.They sold so many lowering spring kits for the nissan...87 bucks gets all four of them.This is sillier to look at than to drive..but do want a better appearance. 1.5 inches in the front drop should get it..and the back squares up camber to front dropping a little bit. I learned all this on a 2wd model..so am not going to be surprised at a little more race car looking. I actually liked the appearance of my 2wd enough to get my first (better) camera…and share like I am now. that was 6 years ago.

this is actually a serious win to have this where it is at. To play with actual parts instead of manhandling is quite ok to stay patient about. the 1.5 inch drop is ahard one.. the strut is tougher, exhaust header changes angle permanently, power steering retracts its tortured stretched out bad angled rack, caster and camber into a relaxed state helps it even more. Bearings, bushings, and tires will be very content. Flat footed under power is a result.

I believe this may have been 3 years ago.. ready to tackle with normal stuff..catastrophe after catastrophe.. these extras got put on hold.

some other notes..
as I have to keep an eye on cold starts (tells me what debris I got flying around after my work).. there is a skipper on driver side. #4 is having a time with something. It always wins... and there is no rich condition. I want to call it heptane, or hexane..gasless..could be radiator squeezing out of new torques.(airless gas)
#3, the other side.. it too took awhile after changing gasket, and cam. Driver side recently got the retorque and cams as well. Just getting into the driver side mixer for heat (force feeding core back to pump) Beyond guessing this won't take long. the driver side stays alot colder than it used to. The other imprtance for the check valve...force the heat not only though core, but back into block for 2 colder cylinders freshly fed with super radiator to mix into warmer faster...exponential chase.

boxer3maine

10-11-2011, 11:49 AM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JZPfenkRoDE/TpRldr865gI/AAAAAAAACqg/Xnn8wVW1r34/ubeoct2011%252520015w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-oUDxYAAS0Mo/TpRlaFtjCzI/AAAAAAAACqY/HpjZzXXsGK8/s1600-h/ubeoct2011%252520015w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
(orange line taken from boot, plugged into fuel vent bowl connection from carb, and boot plugged)

Thinking of other things to tighten up in the vacuum canister realm..before lines go rock hard cold.Unplugged the intake boot end, fuel canister end was marked “fuel bowl”..and put it where? oh. the fuel bowl vent from the carb. Very clever of me.
where subaru utilized the top of the carb as a manifold for fuel tank vent simultaneous.. this left one of the plugins on canister open. One more line removed. One more plug added. Cannot reduce it anymore than this. The fuel tank vent uses the fuel bowl vent..and that has a solenoid. Taking one more line away is good. The vapors in todays fuel are the water killer s much as the fuel. I can see why subaru chose the top of the carb for fuel vent. the only error is that it was not check valved, allowed crap from the carbs mixing to possibly go back into fuel tank (bad news). I simply check valved it…and gained snappier throttle. The plug I used on the intake boot is the plastic plug that came with my new radiator. Looks good and perfect fit. kinda lucky in these strange ways. I want all that to look good..open, aired. old school. Cool. it is the first things to see opening the hood. A little bit tighter on the throttle response. This does not sound like an EA82, and only getting better. The manifolds heading into this cold are tighter than ever,and will only get tighter..forcing a mate of like temperatures is something maine slams into this one for imperfections needing caressing. The cold forces the old engine into the stuff I made. All clean, I know the routine.. these machinist slammings I gave it work into a monument for coming cooldown weeks…and leaves it alone.

now the long term routines can emerge. the fuel vent can, already smelling like a dump site, a tractor trailer, and an incinerator burning a frying pan coated in smething not safe for humans..
I guess that becomes the physics toilet paper, never releasing odors by law (my whole plan for this) and needs changing. 100 bucks a pop. The 18 years old it is deserves it. Waiting for other dramas in the cryogenic shrinker as this point.. don't want to get ahead of myself.

the next vid should get how unique this is. A cross between F1 v6 snap and an old school bleeder whistle on the letdown..carrying a pop of a mini boosted rally car.

9k rpm is on its way to returning.

where the loyale runted this one grunted.. I sent a build laser beaming down the middle to fly past both. That does not just dial in on subaru alloys getting this old..:unamused:

some good news after the pile of diarhea called summer..
engine down a quart is finally getting to the lifters, (makes a noise when over 1 quart down) this means viscosity is getting sticky to the cooler shrinker. I was that close to losing this engine forever.. did not accept oil in a slippery way at all.

ten months it still stayed alive. Given the color change (I knew it was going to) the metallurgy I keep calling oxides must be quite grippy. Very clean and hardening.. 4th year to watch a little bit more density gained..and brighter. To survive the thrashing of mechanical fail, repair, and my version of cleaning.. I could go easy on it, a little more gentle. I do not trust anything EGR engineered. I will thrash all of them the same. Each encounter...until it proves itself. This one has passed more tests than the space shuttle.
this time last year...
the cam was wobbling passenger side. I regretted no new radiator. I was wondering if iridiums would annhilate this old buggy...plug holes were stretching, water pump leaking.. As if I looked at the exhaust lobe rear cylinder, passenger side through the damn casing with a vision unknown...and knew it was insane. headgasket did lose. The rumble of the cam is comical in that I demanded a mechanical change to my version of air fuel and fire.. 75% of the engine rumbling the last lobe to find the crazy one.

this year. the same cold squeeze as 24 before this one... the demand for air is gigantic compared to even my little hog loyale (of course not oem normal either). The skip is #3 cylinder in cold starts (not #4)..that is the cylinder that had the crazy cam timing and blew hg last year. spewed some more oxide, also from a passenger cylinder. The heat don't careif it is check valved at some of its runtime, alloy compression is quite a bit more this year than any it has never seen. This could be the toughest gas engine I will ever encounter. Being this dynamical and literally trying to go to the torque and shape I gave it.

Clutch is a slipper..but hard dial in once it gets it. I expect a pop from the can on one of the cool days coming .when the heat comes back to strong the engine is done doing its new cold moves...and that is when to expect clutch. The plan for these moves was to keep it tight by mastering cooling with best available, and am there now. Having an engine standing by, I did not hesitate to slap this around and get it where I needed and wanted. If the dial in goes to where I think it is going.. I declare a world record unfolding. :lol:

boxer3maine

10-12-2011, 01:41 PM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DJplNrecowc/TpXQXTDufXI/AAAAAAAACrg/AbYX937xFpc/springclamps_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YBYR5J5JSF0/TpXQWalqTuI/AAAAAAAACrY/FGi6WbXZh68/s1600-h/springclamps%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Dropped front strut springs 1.5 inches, each side.. with some cheap clamps from advanced auto. same price as 5 years ago. I used these on a 2wd 6 years ago. The 2wd had oem 2wd struts, and the smaller 2wd springs, and I still had a desire to drop it to planet earth. The lowest riding subaru I have ever seen..13 inch wheels made it even lower.
This GL needed a serious helper to align caster, camber, steering track, caster bushings and give some needed geometry to feed back end some positive camber. Dropping the front on these EA subes does all that.. the EA series subes respond to just 1.5 inches. Now the steering rack does not have an over extension, challenging good parts and seals. It is enough to notice right away, before going down the road. I simply moved it around to see where it was at. Needing A bit more flat footed, negative camber.. was the obvious sign it was insanely put together. looks a lot more normal, and still a 4x4.

this got the whole 1.5 inch..a little more. this not only equals 2wd struts using all of subarus original crazy stuff on this old wagon.. I like the clamps as they conquer at an anomoly all cars with coil springs suffer (the placement of clamps is the hint)

cost: $10.49

one of my all time favorite cheapass hillbilly hacks.
:up:

with nickels and dimes saved form this..the 25 dollar universal ebay front air dam lip is the other 1.5 inch...for the other underthink for this sube. keeping a stable ambient temperature over more area.. struts, and parts, do even better for longer. the air dam does all that.

boxer3maine

10-12-2011, 04:11 PM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-iH6lJH4L47g/TpXy6UVKWWI/AAAAAAAACrw/I1UlcA3z8E0/droppeduspOct2011%252520004w_thumb%25255B1%25255D. jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G1si2WMVAOo/TpXy1YrsW6I/AAAAAAAACro/V4golu_qMhQ/s1600-h/droppeduspOct2011%252520004w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

this photo reminds me to check for the 100 inch base I thought might happen.. like rolling out dough for a pie crust.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2yp2wwQ7rdc/TpXzC7EJFaI/AAAAAAAACsA/X5GXKMNIjcA/droppeduspOct2011%252520001w_thumb%25255B2%25255D. jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AIGqNOVvPTI/TpXy-vitbKI/AAAAAAAACr4/afAsVMI4g-Q/s1600-h/droppeduspOct2011%252520001w%25255B6%25255D.jpg)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-KIK73lRNrOo/TpXzKoOWidI/AAAAAAAACsQ/k7m8gMuI8Ow/droppeduspOct2011%252520007w_thumb%25255B1%25255D. jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-FDeQDwNB7Fo/TpXzGv2PtbI/AAAAAAAACsI/EgyGHsy1Zxg/s1600-h/droppeduspOct2011%252520007w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wUqVmmQaQfI/TpXzSrw6zqI/AAAAAAAACsg/ETfLlZCK8X8/droppeduspOct2011%252520006w_thumb%25255B2%25255D. jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-bIduhkAXld0/TpXzOjS36WI/AAAAAAAACsY/vOZEKItaz6I/s1600-h/droppeduspOct2011%252520006w%25255B6%25255D.jpg)
Not much to say. There is too much to speak. this simply dropped grabs half a dozen things to a tighter realm…including the back end. Air dam is next..and calling this a finale.

the drop is closer to 3 to 3.5 inches.. the balance of camber negative and drop simultaneous is a percentage split that I cannot math out. Very good for this. the air dam is the other weird miracle for this one.. steering rack is most effected.. but flows that I fight with get helped tremendously. just the suspension drop helped the heater and I can tell pipe is a little more louder out the back. less air undernath the car forces more through the grille. It seems I could write a small novel on the drop and air dam.These little cars need these things.

I was at the parts store..and one of the guys went to the window, and other guy says.. what are you looking at? he says.. "that old sube with big tires on."
I was maybe ten feet from the guy and said nothing.
Putting my face with it is not difficult. Even though the net is still a place to button up and remain anonymous for many. To stay hater, to stay false critic, to stay prejudice.. to even plan evil. A neutral stance has got to exist, with real people out loud. I would hope I am there now.

I mentioned the word finale... that is the rarest part of this whole build.

boxer3maine

10-13-2011, 08:35 AM

I got a return call from state police..(inspection story in previous posts.) he tried to move the problem over onto the local city plice.

this was disturbing.

I then mentioned this guy not only got personal and vulgar.. he made a mistake with protocol of a maine state inspection, falsified facts.

so now he wants a written statement. I guess if a complaint is made about an inspection after the state gave an authority to inspect is given.. they get offended too. They gave a license to a retarded asshole, and now have to fess up to their own damn facts.
the state police man was acting as if something personal happened, and that it was civil and I needed to go about it that way. that is not the truth. I not only bluntly pointed out a mistake of the inspector to the inspector.. it snapped the inspectors minority driven monkey temper.

That there is a crazy nut with an inspection license making stuff up against the rules of the states own authority that he was given to inspect with.

I would not even suspend the guy from inspecting. I would take it permamently.

will see how this goes. Another thing I mentoned is getting inspected again, and passing at another garage. He thought nothing of it. This means he acknowledged there is inspectors arguing amongst their own list of items to inspect and coming up with different answers. A machine is a machine... off or on. WTF is the ability for a different result?

will not rant, this is more than once. Same monkey.

boxer3maine

10-13-2011, 10:39 AM

Some better news, moving on..

taking tires and wheels to ups.. I did not know I had 52 pounds added to the 200 already in it. car still sits raked, alot tougher.
removing the little bit of weight was nothing to notice.. no springs rising up front or rear. I do comprehend why the rx had half a sway bar, rear left.

I am in the 900 pound weight rating this cars door stamp claimed to hold. It really was geometry. Crazy length of years and no final attention to stance... not once.. in this entire cars existence. :eek:

the ebay lip sold buy the hundreds is the last thing I do in relation to finish it off. this even softens up some strut signals. a truckish ride right now.. it needs it.
the drop on the spring is closer to 3.5 inches to gain the 1.5 on the outside.. that is a number astounding when deciphering. This means the springs had one coil too many (I had learned of this some time ago, same car model)

being how much this should be more likely destroyed with mishaps of the past years, and not taking me to dunkin donuts to cash in on the dollar off coupon for a dozen...:D

I am getting the engines cold changes bluntly this year, and winning alot sooner. These changes are for big cooldowns, or fire changes, exhaust, cams and headgaskets.. I changed all of them. I must have done good..as it is not being dramatic. I had this trend going on the EGR cams, just last year..took many many cleanings, the billet filter was this engines saviour...and it only peaked to a climax showing me the bad cam, and the headgasket followed. This is the maine dial in that keeps saving this, could not be much more truth. When a solid lifter rumbles with a 45micron mesh on the oil...it is easy to diagnose. the passenger head is still coming back a year later. I simply idle up until it makes its move...silence, a bit more throttle...and that change is permanent. it is a freaky thing to learn from the ea82.

Now, as the season goes to solstice.. the short cold dark days...what it deeper density it changed into is a success only if it does not need to do it again.(I admit, I have not won completely..just still running). This simply means, lube and cooling stayed powerful enough for the warmup of the rest of the year if there is no rumbles of change. Of course.. iron is the champ there..but I am into this dynamic subaru, and learned it patiently. here is to hoping the best radiator I could find, and proper timed cams..bigger exhaust, tighter heads on a good torque wrench..I am hoping this is the final win. no more tempering and annealing and anodizing over and over..year in to another year out.

I do not know what I am making..as it will never be an original alloy after 25 years..but it sure is freakin tough. This was pretty much a brick at 20 years old when I bought it. A cool metallurgy is the brass when it meets aluminum oxide. something creates for itself..beyond my words, but wikipedia explained it bluntly. this may have been the missing ingredient for alot of ea subarus..the plastic tank radiator is mush..and so became the engine.

here is just two items from the wikipedia brass article..
Aluminium brass contains aluminium (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium), which improves its corrosion resistance. It is used for seawater service[37] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass#cite_note-36) and also in Euro coins (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euro_coins) (Nordic gold (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordic_gold)).
Arsenical brass contains an addition of arsenic (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arsenic) and frequently aluminium and is used for boiler fireboxes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firebox_(steam_engine)).

aside from corrosion resistance, brass is antimicrobial. If anyone has had aluminum in the engine bay long enough.. you may have spotted some peculiar layers having its way. Brass helps stop that. ..and of course aluminum with a self made oxidized layer to the world, is a clean tough aluminum. microbials is indeed the word for what I found on my own engine.

nordic gold.
Another nickname for my sube.:lol:

there is a drawback to all this taking shape. A chance for getting sick. I wrote of this in a previous post. The first couple of years and this time of year..wow. Like getting hit with a liquid metal brick worshipping my blood and bones. Takes alot to get it out sometimes. The other major reason I go ballistic about EGR and recycles and cars with not enough exhaust coming out for its displacement...
this year is not so bad.

boxer3maine

10-14-2011, 01:51 PM

The chemistry put together.. that is something I was interested in when I learned of the insanity of the early (85-90) ea82. Does not apply to the northwest USA fairy tale of forever perfect sube for 100 dollars from a junk yard. Their rain is the diluter..the clean ocean when it is not raining is the salts that win us all and everything we have ever built.

anyway.. here in new england, I have even lost teeth to chain reactions. A quick lube man almost 20 years ago had carbed engines of old, egr generation, new throttle bodies and fuel injection all at the same line waiting to get the oil changed. Quite an education after 1500+ undersides getting dirty and up close. Add this to my career pursuit of crew chief of the serious kind on a 707 (not all of us are wannabe stewardesses prancing around an airplane)..

the chemistry stuff got serious. I almost died form a bowel change, left off at "septic". I am glad the net almost speaks english freely to explain some of the stuff I do to my sube..and did to myself while working.

looking up chromates (t304 piping around the cylinder head), I learned this is a passivater for the exit. my sube fights like hell there..and am still bewildered. Does not match defiintion claimed for passivation. Hence the prognosis to just give it time to work. Unlike my neighbors in the room rentals around me.
the brass copper for the coolant side is all one can do to add an ingredient promoting tougher, cleaner and electrical resistant surface.
the catalyst convertor at the end of a long 18+ inch symmetrical y-merge of two banks venturi'd prevents the kickback of oxide explosions.
the iridium plugs will take the place of the EGR recycling the imperfection of the convertor..in a realistic even way now.
the SPF Injection hydraulic camshafts on solid lifters are much more full (I am giggling), a necessary overlap/duration/lift. No more exhaust scavenge/recycle.Cold starts are a real fighter until the old path disappears. this does not mean difficult..this means it is winning.
the welding psi jostles the slowest continuities on any old tin can gauge. This is also something to wait for into a master'd win. Adding engine ground ended up multipurpose. finalizing electrical actions also finishes oxide chains completion.
This is the third year for the sms peugeot alloys..also a mystery disperser way beyond steel. Very welcome thing to do for the old EGR years of subaru...and common sense mechanically saves all moving parts at the hubs front and rear.
one year for the stainless meshed billet oil filter. 45 micron breaks up the chains going chunks..and everything gets quieter in the heads..allows to tune in on other noises and rumbles along the serious building path diailing in.(ie: I learned the tensioners bounce to "beyond zero"- this means "big cam")
this is how much I had to think. Shove it up the west coast EGR valve and let them choke on it. :)

boxer3maine

10-15-2011, 12:41 PM

http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6lEFSTdng5Y/Tpm1acaPSpI/AAAAAAAACuo/9ckBJi3fXyU/subetance%252520018w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgm ax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-XN_shi27dBk/Tpm1Xo-DZ1I/AAAAAAAACug/V3zSLqW3et8/s1600-h/subetance%252520018w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
I park here to get the wind to move the radons and other mysteries of change. Welding psi dialing in, flux acids, old acids.. everything unknown to man falls off and moves in the colder weathers and shorter days. Should be real lively this season. I was expecting it. Every year has brought about the invisible, heading toward november. Metallurgy change after long term as something else is fun like that. As posts previous reveal this one was pigged but not impossible. To leave the car alone, a whole year.. it just sits there like the gravel underneath it. Unsuspected to have been worked in any new way. I can’t seem to do that and retain sanity of course. Front left in a sharply holed puddle, no drama in suspension moves parking there, the back right appears high as a result. It used to cave in like a badly built see saw in leverage.Still an animal in dynamics even after tightening. I do not like the height of cars..and think my sube sits too low. Judging by the sedans around it.. it is still a 4x4s height, japanese version…even after squashing the front springs 3.5 inches. This was a real clown for a long freaking time…
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Kqf41q9rZgA/Tpm0fmXv4tI/AAAAAAAACuY/2GFcC_V1yOM/picasion.com_c294032f326928738a00bbd9d4428bf3_thum b%25255B1%25255D.gif?imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VijnpncLduE/Tpm0Zuy2loI/AAAAAAAACuQ/a2eLQOgQ0gk/s1600-h/picasion.com_c294032f326928738a00bbd9d4428bf3%2525 5B3%25255D.gif)
one of those free online gif makers.

in coming days is 5 years....

I really had a fight with this one, between steel of chassis, the wells.. suspension was left out until final. this is where the car's new stance is and just leaving it there. The cheaper simpler approach offsetting the clamps (one on each spring) fulfilled my own theory that something is strangely backwards and not thought enough on subarus behalf. Drop springs will not even fix this one.The tall 1 year struts do have a benefit of keeping towers empty from lower cup on upward, it has got its own world away from the road. The only real benefit of the crazy struts on the front of this (the tallest extincted version they ever made- most aftermarket do not offer them, and subaru no longer sells them). The 2wd cups leave an open space above the spring, get close to wider tires..and the oem 13 inch wheel for that matter. I did not want to use them as a fix. the crazy strut in it now, and its cup way up in the tower, may also be added to reasoning on why the front lasted this strongly for this long..even as a clown car in suspension. The strut rod dropped into the strut cylinder by more than 1.5 inches gained is a whole other sway bar toughened by many pounds just by geometry...and that leads me to sway bar and axle alignment. More parallel and perpendicular for a happy function, than this car has never had.

boxer3maine

10-15-2011, 07:07 PM

650pm. a common ride, 30 miles round trip. A lot different this year. Front end down on earth, engine still sloppiness.. I still want to call it super slicked. Let the oil get old. the runtime is casually very strong, no thunder thumping. Air in , air out. As boring as this may seem:
it is simply a modernized runtime. there are inline fours still cramming more air fuel as a natural and by oem..but giving the extras I have, puts it into the modern realm. Very full for a little ea82.
Added power steering fluid after it made the low noise.Was not expecting that. I was expecting a burp after the suspension squat however. I watched the steering rods get pushed in as car dropped.. this one was way out there. I hope it is the end of the silly drama for the steering rack leak. High miles would not be a reason for a real fail. Heat was the culprit. I’d be disappointed. The odor coming from pump tells me engine is not done yet with sprites of ridding the past year. Unbelievable recovery. I do not know of any other design that would climb out on the scale this does for no loss..and only tighter. A tappy lifter sound for a little bit today during warmup..the finale was the smell of the grease I used to hold the rocker. I guess it needs full cool, and a work to warm to move stuff. That explains this time of year after I work on it in the summer. A bizarre alloy. I admit I like it after learning..but for a right away fast fix and get back to life..this car would drive me insane.

it is a go. Left me wondering for almost a year..
I am really liking what it does as runtime. no hanging onto rumbles. throttle in, power out. the back end sound must be lively.. when interior gets quiet for an ea82, it is going some place focused...away from chassis. That was something tht bugged the heck out of me on oem build. As if a tractor trailer engine tugging 40tons in the noise it brought to cabin. Still fun for a lot of boxer owners, unequal pipes etc.. I outgrew it. I am glad to have found that bad cam by eyeball (actually by chance looking close).

boxer3maine

10-15-2011, 10:31 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsDB_uMGCk0

from my own you tube description below video:
strange thing to record.

same sights and sounds.. two different worlds of speed. Time is the only difference to indicate.

6 seconds different is underestimation.

the first vid shows all five gears were used.. the second vid, I chose to put it in fifth at the yellow sign. the silencing of drivetrain and increasing sound of wind indicates how much faster it was going as well..all at similar rpms as video 1.

I do not know the distance to the sign. I simply used it as a reference.

today it uses less gas to go faster. nowhere near hot rod...just simply modernized for today. No egr was the biggest conquering, giving it bigger camshafts was part of the chore. Bigger wheel and tires gain 3 percent more ground for same rpm. A simple mix of increased power and taller gearing.

then there is that word "exponential". Both setups keep gaining for the same rpm, especially fifth gear. its like a worm gear that gets tighter. The bigger demand in second vid, not only for bigger tread needing to dig in, but the air fuel on camshafts.. both together make two totally different subarus..sounding similar. The third mystery really is the gear getting taller to the other things I have done. It is comical. One of those crazy things to build.

the real differences today are the tight front end. wider flat footed footprint. if to have the same power curve on the skinny 13 inch.. you would see the front end go right then left each gear. The little snappy twackers had to go.
The phenomenal increase (to me) is once at nominal speed. 75mph (still illegal in southern wrx fantasy land..ironic. the "ancient" 90hp sube is actually out there.) and tippy toes on the throttle. I can only guess 115mph max like a normal 1.8 ought to be..That is where the mechanical changes of cams,and true CAI, etc etc etc.. show their true colors.

also being up taller by several inches.. it can give the same appearance of speed as the subaru going slower at a lower height. eye trick, ear trick..physics reality.:lol:

both vids no more than 70s mph. The first vid, 4 years ago.. is what set me off to do what has been done. Not many understood what I found..and that is ashame. This means runted subarus are going to keep arriving for the blind. The thump of boxer rumble on a 3 main is actually quite a noose in air fuel timing (cams). if to draw a graph..the peak is similar..but one rainbow goes alot farther than the other as it rises quicker to keep it. (the other grotesque fault of dynos in revealing what is strong from what is not).
the first vid is the oem 20hp runted from standards (90hp)
the second vid should be close to goal of 110-115 (average hp for world standard and 1.8 liter)..and that is all I am acheiving. Still no turbo, and utlized tiny oem air fuel..the carb, intake, fuel pump.
:)

boxer3maine

10-16-2011, 01:37 PM

http://lh6.ggpht.com/-yvaoWQxcHLo/TpTr1UfYdLI/AAAAAAAACrQ/UWI_ngMYd00/October%25252017%252520-%2525209%2525C2%2525B715%252520-%252520Accident%252520Web9_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jp g?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-MHZnYQ2Q2j0/TpTryasRx7I/AAAAAAAACrI/Tzknd4hrpX8/s1600-h/October%25252017%252520-%2525209%2525C2%2525B715%252520-%252520Accident%252520Web9%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
looking at this lip..it occurred to me, it was a factor in keeping structure. it has an 18 gauge backing with a 90 degree bend. 5 years ago today is when I wrecked it.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/-buiLARrpHpk/TpsVwFOJgJI/AAAAAAAACvA/puLH2-iEFE0/newlip%252520003w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax= 800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ucIGSz7MUMw/TpsVtrUE-QI/AAAAAAAACu4/Op1qbzXqLCs/s1600-h/newlip%252520003w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
so I made another one. Again exactly 36 inches, by 2.5 inches. 18 rivets..heads topped with silicone for the seal and strengthening to keep it in the rubber. A bit different now, this rubber is corded and came from a horse trailer. It is not as strong as a conveyor belt..but good enough. The backing is the same being a middle piece, and two end pieces..two ends notched for the curve of the ea82 front end. The difference in steel is that it is baked black. This added was another weird phenomena on the ea82..this one edge fixed several things…even helped exhaust.

staying alive is great. No fairy tales once challenged.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1QFOA7wp3tc/TpsvrJvh-lI/AAAAAAAACvQ/0_f5Lic4X0c/newlip%252520004w1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax =800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nUqZaufsLMo/TpsvnxLJKkI/AAAAAAAACvI/ZIQT13qRkCo/s1600-h/newlip%252520004w1%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
very bright photo..I increased some gamma etc just for sake of seeing the lip. Not much visible otherwise. Basic..strength well backed with steel. just slapped on some bumper and trim paint, light coat. this won’t stay shiny. 5 bolts, 18 rivets. 3 feet of steel 90 degree, close to 3/4 inch by 3/4 inch..and the lip is 2.5 inches wide..just enough to get down past pipes. From the second it started, the clutch fan kicked in, blowing straight down behind the air lip..in front of it another world as it was supposed to be. Separating front of radiator to back. that is just to sit and idle.. going down the road really gets going, as it feeds a swath to lower half of engine, radiator, power steering track. I found this through trial and error on my first subaru that got my home made stuff… itleaves rotors and outside frame rails to have their own flows..this air dam just for the 3 feet in the middle.

and the appearance of width of the overall car is about as realistic as I have ever captured. this car is that wide. Even a subaru freak remembers my little gl as something else towards wimpy. real shame to assume like that.
this one with an air dam will help ambient the exhaust temps..head pipe seat expected shortly. on higher speeds the back won't be a poodle with a bone too big to carry..leaving the hind legs well planted. (the only mistake in 2wd photo above..no back end weight at all.)

98Wagoon

10-16-2011, 07:03 PM

I like the video, old and new the car has a nice sound to it. also, the lip looks cool. not the same standard style everyone puts on, its your own, just like everything else on the car :up:

boxer3maine

10-16-2011, 07:16 PM

I like the video, old and new the car has a nice sound to it. also, the lip looks cool. not the same standard style everyone puts on, its your own, just like everything else on the car :up:

it sounds like a bucket of bolts.. the camera finds the engine harder or softer more than my ears.
the first one hung onto exhaust so long it was like a bass tube cannon for car stereo...camera could not capture any of it...except for that thupoing delay. that is another thing I was trying to reveal. That delay of EGR cammed thunder thump no longer happens.

for the air lip, I look for newer stuff, especially keyword of universal... could hack it and make work, but this car has a unique flow for outside rail and inside...a skid plate to boot. Today, (actually 90 legacy onward) it's a new realm.

I did get this trial and error, 6 years ago...it seems I make it half assed and quick...but even the 2.5 inches is an exact measurement (I am not kidding- the 2wd I learned to make the air lip was a crazy car).

this little sube gets pretty serious over that lip. :rofl:

98Wagoon

10-16-2011, 07:37 PM

lips ARE serious business! :lol:

hows the engine holding out, anyway? I know you said it was still a bit sloppy but does it sound like dying sloppy or "too angry to die right now" sloppy?

boxer3maine

10-16-2011, 07:55 PM

lips ARE serious business! :lol:

hows the engine holding out, anyway? I know you said it was still a bit sloppy but does it sound like dying sloppy or "too angry to die right now" sloppy?

it went from thermite blast, warpage manhaldled to tighter than ever..a cooldown by 500 degrees with bigger pipes...a cam swap that gave more flow to everything..zero deck thud to the initial shrinker..a brass copper radiator changing the structure even as we speak (I wonder how long that takes anyway) ..an epoxy lung crusher from a plastic radiator infection took several months to slow down...

then sloppy guts, cold lifter squeezes...concentric vibration on the clutch faking a fail..

and the air dam is actually a late thought, because this is just going get up and move with a surprise very shortly.

it has been 14 full years. I am actually having fun making all these new and old noises... all for 90hp. :lol:

98Wagoon

10-16-2011, 08:07 PM

:lol:

well keep it up. hopefully you'll have a winter free of sliding under the car on ice to find little problems..

boxer3maine

10-16-2011, 09:04 PM

:lol:

well keep it up. hopefully you'll have a winter free of sliding under the car on ice to find little problems..

I haven't gotten under one yet in the winter. I have a may to october..rarely before or after those months. Added it part of the challenge.

I did get a garage in december 2010..very lucky.

else. I don't get under them.

that is an odd fact to ponder. 14 years...
once upon a december.
I only have about 120k of my own miles on 3 of them.
the 3 added together is 460k miles.
All of them projects more than a 5 day week routined daily driver.
I am setting this one up for nominal forever driving...the 2wd is as close as I got, only learned a little more to do to the next one.
just last night, a transformer blew. I look up the road and see something different after learning results of welding..and lots of it. Can't speak it much. The little sube is like a clean planet, or untouched toilet paper..the attraction to it here with invisibles is horrifying.

a few hours after the finishing the lip a transformer popped..6500 people in my neighborhood no power. My car eats at drill guns when used outside. the all plastic Skil drill got through the chore of new bolt holes for the lip.

this past winter seeing the ceramic guide on fire holding the wires running above my car..as if no earthly contentment at all.
The liveliest oddities go with this stuff local.

there is an infinite largeness..subaru did not respect themself for the manly side of these models.
I love to joke about causing earthquakes and tsunamis and hurricanes with one correct sweet spot smack with a hammer on the old sube.:rofl:

this summer was the real focus for the constipation to take a turn to modern outbound.
the proper cams, brass copper even squeezes a heavy gas after several hours of shutdown.
t304 is the passivator ffor exhaust, larger and slower..and no heat covers.

american steel, and any flux weld is always a win. The realtime dispersers are in place..and it was quite a freaking battle to win.

when thinking of winter..

that is the subject was my only worry of getting through: the subes own physics of oem suicide.

I should be proud of what I have done..all the way to nerd and back. not many talk of a real long run..because they never get there in the first place.

boxer3maine

10-17-2011, 01:32 PM

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/1987_gl_under002-1.jpg

4 years ago. the path of caked mud shows the crazy stance, the cars near negative rake on monster struts not even found in a baja rally..even the oil pan shredded its own paint. I am lucky to even try to recover this today.

First ride with lip installed.

I noticed the lip coming out of a store. it is not only hideous.. with bumps and hanging straight down, it has a wrinkle from install..and am not messing with it.
:lol:

a topside something is happening.. the loyale the idea and camshafts came from did similar. idle got robust. A separation of cold and warm is audible.

the difference now is an amazing contrast to sound..the sense of the tougher throttle curve is way up there, something I have never heard from any ea82. i was impressed with the 2wd loyale when I got done with it. the big drama with that one wa sgetting over the MAF heat. The carb not only has the same cams on solid lifters (more lift) there is no heat at all in a larger CAI to feed it. Time will tell what I have done. I was just pinching the loyale heads the cams rode on.. very squishy lifters. there must be 3 types... a big squish, medium squish and no squish. I have had all 3.

like aging wine this engine. Can't put it in any old container one wants to get results.

I am still smelling rocker grease towards full warm, and even got a lifter to rumble around a bit, back to quiet. idle has climbed to 1000..this is a hint about flow change, more towards wanting to run.

the loyale with an ECM did the same. Learning to differentiate the injection and carb on same exact engine guts has been interesting...there is absolutely none. The carb is bigger only in that the solid lifters are just that for the lift, and no limiter of waiting for pulses. This means cold starts could have puffs of wherever the warm run left off..and really liking that too.

smelling propane here in center street neighborhood...another drama for the hypermiler fuel.

I need another rental someplace.

first highway after my time working it is done. Very quick. it is rather funny.No bellows of strain..just gets up and goes. Slamming the clutch for a grab tells me concentric is not done yet..but getting there. A few more weeks. The ratings of tread, cold rumbles that used to happen..all satisfied. Still barely any heat. Super slicked and cooled..there may never be. In subarus normal mode for this, it literally blasted exhaust back into the intake. Still sloppy and oil pressure slowly falls to zero at a longer idle. Just going to drive, and with no more cleaners. The lip is something to notice out there..the chassis likes it. probably a heat layer for more of the belly, uniformed in a way it has never had. this will compliment my welds in the long run, symmetrical piping and an even air dam.

just drive it until the little faker really has a finale. Given the pampering...I chuckle at the thought of how much farther this could go.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/old%20subaru/sube1.jpg
as seen in google maps. Also 2007. The 13 inch wheels/tires look too small for a kids big wheel..the way they sit on this sube is absolutely absurd. Not even funny to look at.
The above photo is not how I wanted to put this sube on the map.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-iH6lJH4L47g/TpXy6UVKWWI/AAAAAAAACrw/I1UlcA3z8E0/droppeduspOct2011%252520004w_thumb%25255B1%25255D. jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G1si2WMVAOo/TpXy1YrsW6I/AAAAAAAACro/V4golu_qMhQ/s1600-h/droppeduspOct2011%252520004w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

this really is a close to a finish. I may be able to do more with paint..the location I have done the work since 2007 is looking to sell and move, and I know not to bother checking around to be allowed to paint and weld, and yell, and smash things and rev engines. Thanks to my dad. It has come a long way.

boxer3maine

10-18-2011, 07:54 PM

I look back at this time of year, it is typically no more sube welding, deeper projects await another season.

I spoke of the chemistry chains that sparked up in the fall. I even blamed the trees changing colors. I learned the car really had one. Never have worked with 25 years original. A learning experience for not only me, but whoever reads my ramblings.

this year is good health, no aurora of wondering where the finale is.

on this day, two blog entries, 2009, and 2010.
..my teeth are in amazing pain. This is getting serious. I tore apart the coffee maker....
I did figure out the catalyst for the gas tank seam, it literally uses the gas to work.

I tried blaming the coffee maker first. as if my teeth new the water came from an electrical source of heating it ..?
(it was the car)
I also wrote about the gas tank doing something bizarre. A separate event, aside from the cooling.

212am. not much going on. this lack of sleep, I have yet to figure.. I do this every year. sometimes all winter…
Knowing its a subconscious thing. I just can’t place it.

I could not even explain it last year.I later learned the "plastic making chain" was in my lung

The headgasket and stretching plug holes..the infected radiator...well, the rest is history. This year I now not only like to look back, todays blog entry is a tidy list of all work done. A clear head and lungs for me and the car.
:up:

do not think this did not get serious. I did not know the strength of what has happened could even exist...on the time scale that it did it. It even added me to the equation.

I did decipher a bad choice in very new oil from castrol,expensive, probably changed by now... won't say what it is.. don't need the hassle. even the front main seal destroyed itself chemically. the water pump o-ring. The tiny plastic side tank radiator was a nut to begin with on my engine. that branded as a sticker with "SPI" if anyone knows what that is.
still fighting with oil, right now, but it is a dead subject (thankfully). Sloppy engine noises is really how far I cooled and lubed it. I am glad to hear them actually.

I am in good old pennzoil with the 40% cleaning label (been out there a long time) , the antifreeze is peak phosphate free, silicate free..and the list is here already of everything else.

update on the old radiator.
I had all this written, lost all data, also 2009..
anyway, it was a spectra premium..and copper with plastic tanks. today, those same radiators are aluminum with plastic. I had the aluminum one in my loyale..no problems, even with plastic side tanks. I may have had an original version, outdated.. or just simply very old and plastic is going to fail in a strange way anyway. Could even be a clone, or false labeled.. my car has these stories. 1987 was a tragedy in silented evil ways.

if you have the copper and plastic side tank, spectra.. feel free to read over my disaster and make a good decision.

boxer3maine

10-19-2011, 01:18 AM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-bDall4ae66w/Tp5bL57bg0I/AAAAAAAACwc/LraSnOwaoAw/droppeduspOct2011%252520004wide1w_thumb%25255B6%25 255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-BR0D9QHnk-g/Tp5bHAOwRRI/AAAAAAAACwY/lH1uh5Xw8T0/s1600-h/droppeduspOct2011%252520004wide1w%25255B8%25255D.j pg)
Learning the program called “Gimp” used to give me a headache. A bit more patient as time goes along, the price to use it is worth it. I chose several spots as “select region by similar color”, of course, this would reveal structure, as light overhead reveals it factually. Seems the rear quarter below window is slightly too vertical..I made it by eyeball, errors ok to live with. I did not know there is a side wedge, not just top and bottom. This means more towards a fat dome in the front. Looking at the car from a second story window, at the top..the front of the car is indeed fatter than the back, this photo shows it. I paid attention to these things…as I welded the whole thing by eye, and utilized the sun as hours went by to a “just right” spot. Primitive precision. It really has been satisfying to attempt it without big expense. I also spotted exactly where my custom floor beam keeps the rocker out (slight tint of the green color below doors) that is exactly what I was hoping would happen. Very rigid where I used to have bad thoughts about this model. The bumpers, thought to be errored..are now level to the rake..to tell me they were not wrong. The car’s stance was wrong, and I worked it to the level of bumpers. This is about as final as I go.. a paint person would have to take over.
clicking photo should open window to giant version.

I had tried this before..points out if car is a weird shape.
as you can see.... it is not.

ashame the rear left quarter keeps getting a bad time. my step mom smashed into it in june. When I analyzed it in 2006, the wheel well was missing, the strut tower needed surfacing at the edge that connects to body seam upper, the archway looked like it caught on fire, inner and outer bad shape.. the subframe twisted off its inner pinch weld, channel covers destroyed, rear end crossmember altered, strut popped out the bottom...

and there was not one accident. The car did that to itself.

to see the shape here worked like stonehenge in the sun to gain some math..hammer welding and quite a few square feet that won't be seen without digging. Job well done. Even by my backyard ability. I have changed my mind on what destruction can be fixed after this one. Alot more can be done than some don't like to believe.

external archways over the original can't even be seen. That is only the first 1.6mm of this monsters skin. Hard telling what I built...it is only going to get harder and harder.

This little sube is the biggest I may never see again. A paradox.
on to future..
I love the back end being an animal. it may look as crazy as a b-rally car when challenged, like the celica attempting AWD, or the audi..or even the home made peugeot. This would only fit right in, thrashing around like an animal.

For the modern civilized world, I would weld in a bracket for the half sway bar the turbo ea82 got..but finding one is like asking Subaru to support thier own old car completely. That would be a twist.

1982gl4

10-19-2011, 08:43 AM

clicking photo should open window to giant version.

I had tried this before..points out if car is a weird shape.
as you can see.... it is not.

ashame the rear left quarter keeps getting a bad time. my step mom smashed into it in june. When I analyzed it in 2006, the wheel well was missing, the strut tower needed surfacing at the edge that connects to body seam upper, the archway looked like it caught on fire, inner and outer bad shape.. the subframe twisted off its inner pinch weld, channel covers destroyed, rear end crossmember altered, strut popped out the bottom...

and there was not one accident. The car did that to itself.

to see the shape here worked like stonehenge in the sun to gain some math..hammer welding and quite a few square feet that won't be seen without digging. Job well done. Even by my backyard ability. I have changed my mind on what destruction can be fixed after this one. Alot more can be done than some don't like to believe.

external archways over the original can't even be seen. That is only the first 1.6mm of this monsters skin. Hard telling what I built...it is only going to get harder and harder.

This little sube is the biggest I may never see again. A paradox.
on to future..
I love the back end being an animal. it may look as crazy as a b-rally car when challenged, like the celica attempting AWD, or the audi..or even the home made peugeot. This would only fit right in, thrashing around like an animal.

For the modern civilized world, I would weld in a bracket for the half sway bar the turbo ea82 got..but finding one is like asking Subaru to support thier own old car completely. That would be a twist.

There's a couple of companies that make upgraded sway bars for an ea81 both front and rear, the ea82 being so similar they may just fit.... I picked up a couple for my brat, and will most likely do the same for the cali wagon.

boxer3maine

10-19-2011, 11:04 AM

There's a couple of companies that make upgraded sway bars for an ea81 both front and rear, the ea82 being so similar they may just fit.... I picked up a couple for my brat, and will most likely do the same for the cali wagon.

I should try something..
I do have a full sway..
I revealed the assymetry. Very strong torsion, flat lateral counter clockwise once the right front is planted. Back end is a toy.

I also found they still sell one for the 80s XT..all the same for that generation.

for 150 dollars and for a bent rod they called a sway bar, I'll be making something. Maybe even run lines to prevent cradle rocking. the dynamics is there, for full moves, no locking suspension.. just need little helper.

I forgot already about the 1mm gained in strut rod ..by going toyota fore runner front strut, fitting the rear of the sube.

I could take it that all the way to rancho damper adjustable..except manual damper valve gets hidden once mounted.

I do like it animal. 4 freaky planted legs defying logic in sight sometimes..it is still alive for a reason.:lol:

it seems I am killing the rear left one at 2 years..a wet spot of loss of damper fluid. I chuckled at the photos of underneath..it all looks capable, and then a glimpse of the oem strut not fitting a damn yugo proportionately..
I'll try the toyota strut..taking my time now anyway. That +1mm is a big number.

looking up the 3.4 liter 4runner, there must be a weight rating change..the delusional strut world never mentions it. Getting at a higher performing one is a good idea.

150 delivered, for a pair. Not exactly bilstein insanity.

boxer3maine

10-19-2011, 10:07 PM

the post title. it needs a boxer3mainiac hollywood grade movie.:)

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd255/soob87/littlehoodscoop001w.jpg

the big bad hood scoop has arrived from hong kong. Having two hoods, I am looking forward to letting the beatings commence. (the rubber boot hits the hood). The plastic grade is thicker than subarus oem grille, am liking that.
I will try and get that done this weekend. painted black like the grille, and to be facing backwards. I am filling in the tiny opening. Looks like the old subes hood lines..a miniature funny thing to look at. I may be able to cut out above rubber boot entirely, and leave the scoop as a real part of the hood sealed off as just a bump needed. This will prep it for the bigger carbs and boot combo to fit beforehand.

for now am fighting with one cold blooded suby:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZHYOZevlsk

This is unlisted and not wanting worldwide attention..just for suby builders or whoever is building stuff here.
I have not had the cold starts like this since a two barrel ford from 1974. Not sure what to do with this.
verfiying sound, the ricer in second part of vid shows the difference in how quiet this stayed. :up:

boxer3maine

10-20-2011, 01:17 PM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-7BHDjMFo9Qo/TqBWYtn9LGI/AAAAAAAACxo/p9sx6iIEZGI/hkonhscop%252520002w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgm ax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-m1-LCu7KyTo/TqBWVq_K4cI/AAAAAAAACxg/gDzQCO6d8Ak/s1600-h/hkonhscop%252520002w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
recycling my burnt welder is satisfying..found a spot for the side cover louvers. this fits a groove premade into the scoop.I am leaving the glimpse of red. Again bumper and trim paint by rustoleum. no rivets, glues..may give it some silicone.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/-atI1z8cUrIM/TqBWfFwMe6I/AAAAAAAACx4/WvFpcvP3t50/hkonhscop%252520003w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgm ax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jKeTFTTP1mI/TqBWb5VEPmI/AAAAAAAACxw/AQQnqMe9CgY/s1600-h/hkonhscop%252520003w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
the speckles are the camera, not the little scoop. Two screws flush mount on the front edge through the hood with nuts, some silicone..and done with it. this strangely conforms exact contour no strain. 7.4 inches wide is plenty for the rubber boot. A taller carb by an inch or more can fit in. I put the louvers in to cut the hood open, and give this a dry function.

I also peeled the 3m sticky tape off the edge. The original screen for the front would not take a maine breeze...that had to go too. The plastic is rigid, will do it's job.

boxer3maine

10-20-2011, 05:04 PM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ntvXd4j-p_w/Tp-d5D1JTVI/AAAAAAAACw4/iqeFXPnVoFA/airdam_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Z3oR9A0-DWE/Tp-d3YRcFZI/AAAAAAAACww/ctGaAnI1CJw/s1600-h/airdam%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
factory air dam up front. I knew it was an option. Never seen one with it local. My own needed to be bigger..custom piping. It does look decent going all the way across..maybe I’ll add a similar size and appearance for the outer on my own where it is not filled in yet.http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2oCLmg6mEn4/Tp-d6LXebqI/AAAAAAAACxI/Ru28u54T6zs/fogs_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kJalDqr1qew/Tp-d5hZnOAI/AAAAAAAACxA/lu_nxsAPK1E/s1600-h/fogs%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
These factory lights on the bumper may explain the mystery brackets seen through my grille. I may hunt the similar height and appearance down for some fogs. The source of these photos also shows I have some rare mirrors apparently. I did not think I did,as one of them are a loyale, and matched my GL. Hard telling with these old subes what owners do for the pile of parts they have may be any year of the ea82, as long as they fit..they can be used.

before disasters I was finding stuff that was missing by oem..the air dam is indeed one of them. even this low rider with midget wheels on came with an air lip.

changed my mind on the scoop. way too midgety.I remember what a fat tire under the hood does for pushing it up.. I may intentionally find something to hold up above tire. I got this semi hard foam that is squishy and comes back out.. may try that. or something similar.

lively pop thru the carb , even stalled. seems I am getting a predetonate..a cough. One of the last chores I attempt is a heatgun at the engine seam behind oil pump..see if something was in a channel. oil is really moving..but guage is not right. Higher the octane..and just drive. When iridiums finally get the cylinder they are fighting for.. the exhaust notes decibals seem to be creeping up ever so slowly.Not sure how lively this one is going to settle up to (no more settling down) :)
flat footed and air dammed..it seems even the windshield clears up with no defrost on. Very normal to drive. The cabin is more of one..my feet even tell me. The little monster is going to pass heat in a normal direction even if its the last thing it does.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jDfUnU9wTKI/TqCh_HxSLUI/AAAAAAAACyw/4wU7lNitc8c/bump%252520stop%252520006w_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jp g?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-VITMC5fmG3k/TqCh8dGTM4I/AAAAAAAACyo/O-S3TN36HOs/s1600-h/bump%252520stop%252520006w%25255B6%25255D.jpg)
useless bump stop. I am going to attempt it to hold up the hood by attaching it to spare tire wing nut at right height, or close to it..then tighent tire or loosen to get it just right. dual purpose...as the wing nut is not inert to electrical mystery from above..this bumper will cover it. (I have yet another physics story about wires running by the top of my car from telephone poles)..reminds me to heatshrink tubing on the antannae....

The microbe kills seem to be in action,the brass is really doing something...as if to let things go from every side of the engine, coolant, oil, and external. I found some brown oddity at the oil filler cap...even lively, wants out. the same color that was on the cam casings, etc. the cleaners in the oils as claimed are busy. I can't judge the carb poppers yet. 25 years is showing me what it is all the time. The joke of the volcanic microbes used to be funny.

boxer3maine

10-21-2011, 10:16 AM

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Y5zhUjFVmDg/TqF62Kjz3hI/AAAAAAAACzA/-T6sWiLZm_0/hoodsport%252520003w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgm ax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DGdEC_-qNNs/TqF60UkaJ-I/AAAAAAAACy4/epImuwuJgws/s1600-h/hoodsport%252520003w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
found hood support. simple solution..also acts as another air dam. I may give quick burst of bumper and trim paint..keep the little speckles glued to its source. Trying to mimick a spare tire that touches the bottom of the hood..As comical as it may seem. When a fat tire is under the hood, it gives the whole engine bay more air,and a space at the air plenum. Even kept power steering cooler.

simple..and throw it away if it fails. I was using this to seal an air conditioner in a hot place...between a roof next door, the a/c heat, and wedged between two windows. A freak physic of hot. one of those windows that alter curtains colors if to use them. I guess I can throw it on top of tire. memory of it telling me what is needed.

Unlike seattle rain. We get weight here. phenomenol rear end cracking strut popping weight. This time of year local, things get quieter..even the city. A reminder the lesser animal is retreating back to its mouse hole.Be it hunting season rolling in, or predictors of cold. Alot more trucks. I have been the odd with a little sube ready for the same for quite some time. :lol:

Edit: even simpler. I hit the hood framing with a hammer, gave it an arch math that must have held it all the years..and left it off with a new shape. Following all framing around the rub spot, just simply kept tapping firm with hammer. I'll finish it off with any paint. No dents or mistakes in hood skin..this was just framing getting hit with the hammer.
problem solved. Another thought of cure for long term is no crazy chemical radiator melting everything but my eyeballs.

something I don't do often..as this car and normal has not gone together long enough to care. I got up close to wheels and tires, some soap and a scrub brush and a rag, been six months, check for oddities. No unevens yet..but only been 3000 miles. Tires cleaned up well..wheels need somethng stronger to clean them, and paint. Added to a todo list that never ends. :)

boxer3maine

10-21-2011, 06:35 PM

literally 10 months..
it is just going back to the normal drive forever mode. It is even conquering its own pressure gauge problem, readings are way up until idling too long. A metallic smell tells me it is killing the last of whatever got to it..cat letting it go.

a difference this year, I am excited about it..14 other winters with the same engine to remember besides just another one climbing in.

the exhaust always got louder this time of year, no sensors etc. This year has a flow almost taking an audible to follow right back to the engine..an open casual, no fighting. Full muffler and cat...this tells me something about a flow never had. This setup must be quite loud on an open pipe (never tried it yet). I guess they really are quite retarded from the factory. This will stay with it from now on..a simple goal I have just met after a very long time.

I had a chance to heat gun at the pumps backside..see what is going on with goop at the channel going vertical to oil pump..was black and dirty , noticed when pump was removed...but changing the fly by wire sensor on my dads rig ended up with broken bolts and chiseling..and anyway..will tinker with the sube again sometime to finalize oil readings and flows. It can stay ignored...but that is the last step left to full recover, nothing to think about after that.
The heatgun works for some odd reason..will do sooner than later.

boxer3maine

10-21-2011, 10:26 PM

Finally got the pro filter today. Looked it over. first thing to notice was weight and a flashback to when working at a quicklube. This canister does fit other engines. Chrysler and ford has same thread. The filter mesh is impressive, that too has a decent weight. The top of the filter is much more open, more than matching the trochoids unusually big pump hole. The expendable filters have tiny holes up top to reduce volume on the cheap paper…and a relief..and it drives an ea82 crazy.

suby diary a year ago.

the filter was better than expected. As oxide mishaps happen , headgasket being the nastiest.. it does not stop for the mess, stainless shreds it, and even makes pcv active to rid of it in a gaseous state. 45 micron has proven to be just right. I may go the 10micron filter..experiment.

5 years since purchase of car yesterday.
100 miles away from 135k on the odo will be 31k miles. This past year was the least use, less than 4000 miles. The biggest changes are also the past year..for the better. I would like to confess best.

Wanting this done in one season..really got dramatic. turned into five years, witnessing the pace of steel, learning a welders curve for tin cans. Cryogenics on suby alloys..the physics of different scenarios. None of it was fast in the first place...this ended up a good pace for working it slow with no regrets. I want this to go to someplace..realistically thinking, swap a parking spot of someones home project for this one..let it sit just as much. Pickup trucks seem to be the easy one to find to fit the bill..farm or something...beyond book value games and in a tortured civilization, the disbelief factor only adds to frustration, the value can only be derived first hand. I really want to finish off with a diesel, 8 cyl..wherever it is at...simply road legal machinery of some kind with a v8 diesel. I even look at military auctions for the gm 6.2 L.

Humoring a deeper value would have dyno numbers written, maybe a quick whirl at a .25 mile track. Pretentious given the path of this cars life, but people are stupid. :)

boxer3maine

10-22-2011, 03:01 PM

http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EG1EuhIroGA/TqMSGghcwcI/AAAAAAAACzw/83qigLU5uEM/silver%252520spoon%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D .jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VX53tPNnUlw/TqMSC2YoqdI/AAAAAAAACzo/F8us3Vi7hVs/s1600-h/silver%252520spoon%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
the red metal above the carb boot base is what I felt needed to be removed eventually. Thinking of exotic materials to play in vacuums of science.. stainless steel is a minimum. I hacked up a stainless steel spoon, and there you have it. Some subes are fed with a silver spoon in it’s mouth. This fit first shot, no manipulating. the red metal as a first build prototype was my guide to get it even better the second time.

I have it so fat end of spoon handle is at end of boot...humoring some venturi path helper.
when base is removed from carb, flipping it over reveals spoons manufacture, and etched "stainless steel". ...pretty flowers and roses and stuff to look at closely..:)

edit: this strangely did something larger than expected. Car did not like the red baked steel apparently at the top of the carb..possibly too much choke?. I still get an over/under air or charge but it came to life alot easier than the cold start video showed, little pop if it has to. I was not getting too precise with this as I only proved to myself the hitachi needs too much attention to detail due to its size. Hypermiler at all times.

The weber, rochester holley carbs.. still looking, and those will go on the last gen intake for this engine, (bigger by a few mm). I got the cams bigger than the whole generation..on the smallest air fuel, and am not surprised at outcome.. not bad really. I had done this with a v8 for a previous lesson. (small intake/heads and simply put bigger cam in.)

boxer3maine

10-23-2011, 11:04 AM

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KW-Z7RpeUds/TqQsIBHy8jI/AAAAAAAAC0A/r9QL36iomYw/finalbootbase%252520001w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg? imgmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-7siFOmcMFu8/TqQsFFkbStI/AAAAAAAACz4/Fxa1PMqXT8E/s1600-h/finalbootbase%252520001w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
having the metal base where I want it by trial and error.. this wing nut is the last monster for the little venturis. That had to go. Big enough to separate foreground focus on the little camera into a blur..
http://lh5.ggpht.com/-laShe8CKMy8/TqQsOQZPIvI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/LMfxRAEQuPc/finalbootbase%252520002w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg? imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-faYvW7bjyO4/TqQsLIqaENI/AAAAAAAAC0I/yuPyd7OB4DU/s1600-h/finalbootbase%252520002w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Thinking aero as possible, and small.. I snipped up the nut that went here in the first place, from its old connection. I need this nut separate from the spoon, as other carbs will have a bigger stem, and a new nut. Not worried of keeping it locked, the ridges on the bottom locked into the spoon, and I visegripped this to tight.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vrYgtLOwlOI/TqQsVnRtlAI/AAAAAAAAC0g/5ZXXRbmbHnQ/finalbootbase%252520003w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg? imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ni5HUyYh1Uk/TqQsSCnR7mI/AAAAAAAAC0Y/jdd6v8KSFF8/s1600-h/finalbootbase%252520003w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
final appearance yet again. near the yellow wire on the left..the plastic plug in the boot is a perfect fit from my new radiator. Simple ingenuity has alot of this buggy

the spoon is the highest grade part in there..the rest is true plenum remains, including the round nut. "meeting or exceeding oem" is fun.
edit:

the clutch finally happened. popped out like stage of another class. I learned throw out bearing is forced to disengage with our feet..but to engage, it counts on subarus spring pressure of a thousand auto-ninjas. This means to overheat with big work kills it. I learned to stay patient with that on my very first ea82..and of course make super cooling a goal as a result. I have met the goals, cryogenics brought the clutch back yet again. This is where I need to wait again to see if it keeps it. Cooling is a success if I kept the clutch. It will keep it if cooling is strong enough. Metallic smells may not even be the engine completely ..the clutch forced to take more power and shrink in the cooling is the other.
zero deck thuds no longer with it, the sound of rods at certain rpms tells me the cams are doing something a lot different..and the pressure is a game I also am quite familiar with on a clean engine..need to wait and simply drive it around. feed the oil consumption. To recover at all has been amazing..to analyze the density and length of time it is taking to be normal is even more amazing. Most would chuck it in the dumpster and start over…
awesome news with the clutch. the final concentric for new cams and lower mass working together follows shortly. Been there more than I can count reworking on overworked EA82. This is good news.
that extra bit of air the spoon gave it is more than coincidence. There is a joke about the ea82...
they failed to not having enough to kicks its own ass.:)

I sought some header wrap..found some on ebay for 21 delivered. This one needs it. started life as a mini propane torch, now a acetylene steel cutter. metaphor for freaking HOT exhaust timing.

boxer3maine

10-24-2011, 11:25 AM

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jgXsMhyCbOs/TqWBaLGxnSI/AAAAAAAAC1I/tcwuAhTKrcw/weth1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PuQdsIabFWk/TqWBYbsRoAI/AAAAAAAAC1A/2WD4kHUBzC4/s1600-h/weth1%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
Dropping the front springs half a universe I ponder what the 13 inch studded snows would do now. I have had them in a shed looking new for quite some time. I left off with the noise makers spinning all four tires climbing onto route 9 in brewer maine.No ice and they are crazy. This year has some silica based modern sube tread.. but do know when to stay limited in the weather and stay home. The little 5inch wide ice munchers are mythological for this old sube. As stiff as the chassis is.. I wonder if I outdid weight ratings permanently…my reason for swapping the 13inch out after first welds.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HVFNQUnMzE8/TqWCdsFCyUI/AAAAAAAAC1Y/TpONAUuup9k/snow_wheelw_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-pZpW2gPhyqs/TqWCZmoGjvI/AAAAAAAAC1Q/nOYsiaw1O1k/s1600-h/snow_wheelw%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
photo dec 4 2007

I don't think I'll bother these. The little loyale 2wd was a lnatic.. and I built something flowing a bit more. With four spare peugeot wheel.. I should realistically go for some low profile studded 15s.. 8 inch tread width. That would be interesting for this. The nokian hakkas unstudded was hilarious..no concept of slippery.

boxer3maine

10-24-2011, 04:28 PM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ixb03ZXGSaU/TqXI9GV63fI/AAAAAAAAC1o/3AjSrBt_ArE/6276670432_e43c612a7c_bw1_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg ?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lXnMQtG3CW4/TqXI5SC-nVI/AAAAAAAAC1g/315jM8fHWQU/s1600-h/6276670432_e43c612a7c_bw1%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
two heads found on ebay. new old stock (what else would there be?). oddly large chambered (green arrow showing distance of plug hole from surface), and double egr holes (purple).. an oddity no doubt. Double egr was 1 year for subaru..1985, and over into 1986. late 1986 onward started “heading” (haha) for sanity. If auction goes cheap enough, this is worth a sale. Heads never being on an engine, and new.. the double egr can get some fancy plug work, as well as top side egr hole before initial burn-in. Having 6 heads already, hell and back.. these would just be added to a tough pile. I would humor an auction battle if I could.

large chambered and triple EGR... have fun at the auction.
:slap:

if deck was thick, one might get a 1987 mimick of higher compression by getting it surfaced in a big number.. like .030 or even more.
else.. that is going to be one runted ea82 slapping those right on.
http://www.speedtest.net/result/1553699834.png (http://www.speedtest.net)
back to an almost normal net. I was at a speed found in ISDN days of computing for the past year.

I still keep photos at 130kb for reasons of not forgetting bandwidth.
still at 32 KB upload.. nothing fancy is going to be coming from my pc. :)

boxer3maine

10-25-2011, 11:04 AM

I hated driving around here in the morning and still do.
Getting as dumb as southern new england.

Alert nunavut is looking closer all the time.

I don't know what I build until being in the morning stampede. Avoided for more than a year apparently. I hate it that much. :lol:

It is more an animal this year than last.. looking as normal as a wagon.
metallic odors, and a right bank exhaust temp sending heat waves like a desert tell me I am winning the block, cool weather or not. Engine beatings will commence.

header wrap to protect engine crossmember and steering track, bottom of firewall.. this is going to get louder by a bit. That is all I can do.. there is no other thoughts to act upon. Drive it until win or fail.

rally crack pops letting off the throttle above 4k with a flat side anti scavenge on the assymetry of the cams.. that loyale these came from was probably the old generations version of a GT. like my old wagon to gl touring never labeled.Never seen the cams profile like that before...well thought, no offset.. all cylinders get their chance. A 1993 car would have a modern timer anyway.
looked over cams many times, with 4 in a box at the same time..5 years moving around randomly. I spotted it by eyeball. Glad they are doing what they are doing.

Engine does not have a calm mode.. it seems the more I beat it, concentrate on demand of traffic rather than pampering, seems the right direction. Got to stop getting older and treat my car a bit younger. that is the way it is I guess.. we get older, building something to be younger.

at a redlight, a legacy wagon next to me. 4 hubcaps.. 14 inch tires. Very early one..they look straighter than any sube with no curves at all. no extras on the arches. I realize what I have done when seeing that only a few years away from my own.

1982gl4

10-25-2011, 12:00 PM

Engine does not have a calm mode.. it seems the more I beat it, concentrate on demand of traffic rather than pampering, seems the right direction. Got to stop getting older and treat my car a bit younger. that is the way it is I guess.. we get older, building something to be younger.

at a redlight, a legacy wagon next to me. 4 hubcaps.. 14 inch tires. Very early one..they look straighter than any sube with no curves at all. no extras on the arches. I realize what I have done when seeing that only a few years away from my own.

That's they way my GL is, On they highway no mercy, leave it at 4k she'll hold it all day, not questions asked. It's better than being run over that's for sure. Driven in PA. with loads of trucks on the road, that's some scary stuff being surrounded by things 12x the size of you in a 70 hp economy car.

As for the legacy that's why I love them about as simple as they came great little cars those.

boxer3maine

10-25-2011, 05:39 PM

That's they way my GL is, On they highway no mercy, leave it at 4k she'll hold it all day, not questions asked. It's better than being run over that's for sure. Driven in PA. with loads of trucks on the road, that's some scary stuff being surrounded by things 12x the size of you in a 70 hp economy car.

As for the legacy that's why I love them about as simple as they came great little cars those.

I drove a 2wd 5 speed loyale down that way..part of a 1350 mile trip.
it needed taller gearing..other than that, it even blasted thru NYC like the animal that place is.Took GW bridge, like a go kart.. One of those uplifting times to really build an EA series to be normal. took the hills of new york a bit west, then turned towards home. did it all.

at 70hp? ..1781cc is 40hp under world standards on 87 octane. The cam does all of the retarding.
steel is not the only scary thing coming from japan...they somehow runt the worlds biggest four cylinders in ways not thought possible. :lol:

I want the one I built here to be witnessed especially if to be headed for a sale.. some might even jump knowing it for what it left off in history as.
..and it is still on hypermilers fuel. :eek:

my job with it is nearly done. a newer rebuilt engine may get humored with identical build...and an exedy clutch.

the whispering and thunderthump modes are all done for this one...simply right down the middle with common sense. I was to do this some years ago..alot of delays. such is life.

I have messed with my own cars for so long, the seasons changing have to remind me of the year prior. This one making noise is considered petrified.. if to hit a thousand degrees anywhere but exhaust is going to sound like everything is forged. This one has twenty years before me, and a hot event while owning it (all the way to thermite blast). The rpm range and power gain is bigger than ever.. so I may let this go with just the spfi bigger intake swapped in, any carb I choose eventually. Good on fuel, oil is finally seating...wants to be a race car in hard noises? I might just let it.
not even the clutch can warm up like it used to. Let it slip to grip.

boxer3maine

10-26-2011, 02:07 PM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-l7ApcIKz08A/TqhL04FkDPI/AAAAAAAAC18/e1qgEEodUN8/bracket%252520002w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax =800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ai0bfPRBLYU/TqhLzCxhJTI/AAAAAAAAC10/p0pozsyvPAk/s1600-h/bracket%252520002w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
useless bracket at transmission, and ground wire, on same casing bolt. Sat close to firewall bolted to transmission, never hit it.
found the one going from transmission to tire mount area..swapped it for the burned welding machines ground wire. Getting all I can out of that is satisfying. Much thicker, higher grade. Now from driver side to passenger is large starter cable as ground from drivers head to behind driver side headlamp, to medium size at tranny to tire mount/firewall, over to oem original gauge on passenger head to tower. The passenger side one is the only extra, the other two are oem locations, just bigger.
A bracket inbetween the tranny and the ground may have been a trouble maker. seems a badly galvanized piece..and it appears to be able to hold a speedometer sized cable. Nothing in the area gets close to it.. maybe someone swapped speedo cable to deem bracket useless. I took that out, now ground is right between the tranny casing bolt and nut on original connector. Nothing to notice with these things..but they do need to be there. The heater has a trick to work with continuity.. I may figure that out yet.. it may start working now for all I know, after changing ground wire at tranny to firewall, fresh spots, thicker wire

the heater core is directly above bracket inside the car... mysterious connection?
:dunno:
my car gets all of them. Removed bracket, thicker wire, better connection, insulated ends with zip ties and electrical tape.

I await the aurora..

run. run away. it is terrifying.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OZ_oQxzHihw/TqiVMzqNpmI/AAAAAAAAC2c/Ak4cnz1Uuvc/ea82grounds_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-tvMlk2KW8w8/TqiVMGINMHI/AAAAAAAAC2U/_t9pQ1r996k/s1600-h/ea82grounds%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

felt inspired to draw up a highly technical drawing. :)

the old oem wire used to be driver side. As the hookups work, one is farther back on the cam casing, which ends up looking nearly parallel to the driver side.
the starter cable is a big one of course.
the middle one from transmission casing bolt goes under the spare tire, chassis connection.

I just drove around from cold start, volts hung onto 14 something. I knew the middle one did something bigger than not allowed to do. This may explain the heater resistor, oem radio, cig lighter, front right speaker..and the lack of ability to change gear shifter extension to a longer exposed metal one.

all gauges of wire are much thicker than origin...the passenger side was non existent. This was to go along with the header wrap chore (will be a few weeks for that one).

I never want to think this much again. :hahano:

boxer3maine

10-27-2011, 12:39 AM

I swore I had this written at least 3 times. Anyway, here it is again, and for my own log of the car.

losing all the sube info just two years ago.. I forgot what clutch I was going to use. Given the ea82 could rip anything apart.. I wondered if the xt6 would fit, and it does. the carbed ea82 is no problem..I did read the loyale or spfi subes may have a measurement that is not exactly xt6 but usable. The carbed version can go right back together no mods.4wd of course, any year.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-L9YdMxlVm4c/Tqjfne5VtfI/AAAAAAAAC2s/z2JLWccPKzw/xt6-ba_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hFdrppjZewA/TqjfnKh6qmI/AAAAAAAAC2k/WBqqhm7U9Ho/s1600-h/xt6-ba%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
the beck arnley even lists it twice.. for my year sube and the xt6, same list, same part number.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/-0Fe7RkZvRqQ/TqjfoaobGeI/AAAAAAAAC28/ZdvMKx70G3A/xt6_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2PcHBJVU7uQ/Tqjfn0kJ1fI/AAAAAAAAC20/wwgnJz__WT4/s1600-h/xt6%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
as you might guess from photo, why I want the rhino pac version.. if anyone has any facts aside from what I know, that would be great. 24T, 8 7/8ths, 1 inch. the xt6 matches it. this rhino is not listed for the carb ea82. This is definitely manlier.

I still cannot remember if the rhino was a go or not. must be..just going to do it.
I do recall getting mad about the clutch. the xt6 answer was a good one...do I stay with beck arnely listed for either 6 or 4 cyl? the rhino is kept "secret" for the xt6 only..and am wanting that version. :lol:

I learned the bouts of super grippy and back to slipping is me tearing the can apart. I look forward to seeing what my version of the ea82 engine did to it. it will finish off with nearly no function..staying quiet about it.

thinking off of memory, the 3 different lifters I had... it seems the flywheels go along with it..3 different versions. Nothing subaru documents exactly. the carb ea82 is as big as they got.
go figure.
:)

boxer3maine

10-27-2011, 05:27 PM

slow as molasses, my mind with this car...

this buggy gets no header wrap:

the passification will be deemed useless for t304
forgot the smell of every non-burnable event by nature under the oem heat covers (my god.. I was sick for months - one whiff)
dispersal on bigger volts
realistic cushion for bigger fuel air
all of the above can be summed with: this engine is no longer the half fired suicider pussbag it came from.
back to not runting myself with this car and keeping a watchful eye for an old monojet or rochester dual jet...or any round top 1-2 barrel.

I found a unique rochester for 2.5 liter marine engines...perfect candidate.

edit: the chevy vega..somewhere near 1972. rochester dual jet. Piles of old rebuilt stock (factory reman) or even New old stock is a slap (nearly) right on to spfi intake. minimal machine.
no plate needed, but may put some 16 gauge below gasket.. I would poop if this all fit under the hood (seems it is going to)..
the vega was 2.5 liter.

the fuel pump is a 5 maximum, rochester uses it.. the hitachi keeps it in a very small mode (maybe less than 3psi even now). Indicator of how lacking it is in fuel air.

boxer3maine

10-28-2011, 05:50 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh2rM2ie1dg

when I stepped up patiently, 7 years ago...

willing to reveal how badly respecting a 1987 oem subaru is...and why I hack it.
I was also making my own mixxes with any song I felt working as well as animations, if software was for free to work with.

Now that the engines and cars are 25, I get left alone...

Sometimes I mix the sube and my motivation in with it.

I do what I am doing for the "real" boxer. quite simple...adding some art and entertainment is simply fun.

..and a woman screaming over and over again gibberish in a song completely sucks. :)
click here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ylb9qAhlZlM)for original screaming lunatic version

boxer3maine

10-29-2011, 11:00 AM

cold start was the noisiest I can ever remember. Gauge coincided with oil pressure..clutch pedal to floor was yet another noise. Took at least 2 minutes to engine got quiet. I knew I made a mess, and I gave it a summer of cleaners. This is an event I recall from last year at this month. Swapping to the syntec stopped it instantly. This year, I do not know what it is going to do, but will try and treat it the best I can anyway. the airflow is gargantuate on the cams. that carb must be getting very cold on the little barrel side at the venturi. The rochester found for the chevy vega (1972).. I am almost daydreaming remembering how live a double synchronous barrel is, even on an inline. the boxer just goes legend. I hope it makes it for the experiment. Using the older engine is not a bad idea…noises or not, can get a good map of the next one before it begins. This will get the shrinkers of chemistry out in nanoseconds..without the fib of electronic hertz mimicking the same. “True fire” is what it was called…

crazy sube is hanging in there. Very hard engine this cold season..never to have the squishy heat makers again. Some noise is going to have to go with it. Funny enough, the valvetrain is perfect..solid lifters on a good overlap in cams..loves it. The guts are getting old, but going ahead with next fuel air. much larger.
:up:

boxer3maine

10-29-2011, 09:48 PM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-OkdQsorto_0/TqyrNb-2-FI/AAAAAAAAC5Q/M9wXMrYPMOk/gt140_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-s8ed8TxarWo/TqyrMDxp6tI/AAAAAAAAC5I/3m-3--5Fkdk/s1600-h/gt140%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
currently in a bid battle on ebay, the 1972 rebuilt old stock (looks like new, factory remanned). Carb is for a “GT 140 vega”. If I win, the sube is going to become a GT 108.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-w2RsD8IeOpo/TqyrP3giszI/AAAAAAAAC5g/kiyqw5_nutM/gt140a_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2QAWkRAQSe8/TqyrO9VaD1I/AAAAAAAAC5Y/3Abkhs6f0h0/s1600-h/gt140a%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
this is within less than .25 for the width of spfi intake bolts, the rest will be a plate and brackets. Simple machining doing at home.. as low as it will sit. this will be thick sides for the edge of the two barrel, a chance for some fancy curves hand grinding.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kvgrxRia2yw/Tqyr7kv2YxI/AAAAAAAAC5w/YfZkTENqyUE/monoj_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800 (http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wIZ0Ax0ojtY/Tqyr6lFjG2I/AAAAAAAAC5o/as5Dh3pCzic/s1600-h/monoj%25255B4%25255D.jpg)
if the bid battle loses… here is the monojet all setup for 2.3 liters as well. less than $100, also “rebuilt old stock”. This bolt pattern needs new studs for both..but the centered barrel holeon the spfi intake will need nearly nothing. Both awesome choices when going for real fuel. Super atomizing has its dangers, today does not do much with that, nor did the years these carbs are from. My sube just happens to be in the insane realm of EGR years extincted.. I want my little sube out of that insane realm by a few mpg. If this drops it to 30mpg even, I’ll be happy with either carb, and it is safer for preserving. The cams, intake and ignition, exhaust, all waiting for the bigger setup already. Making this a priority seems the only way to get it done, I keep ignoring chances.

trying my luck with ebay. there seems to be a pile of these.. so losing is just to wait for seller to post another one. The last time I got a deal there was 7 years ago..not been very good times since. Auction bids exceeding value way too many times. I do not like bidding..worth a try anyway.

either carb is perfect..no jetting. air fuel might need a .25 to .5 tighter...then again, the boxer without counterbalance is compared to a 2.8 liter gm v6 with the right air.

1982gl4

10-29-2011, 10:12 PM

boxer3maine

10-30-2011, 09:14 AM

Ebay seems to have gone down hill, I used to score all sorts of ea81 parts, and there's few and far between now, and when it's good it's over priced.

Changing the carb on my 82 was the best thing I've done to it. I get a constant 27 mpgs with it (the four speed hurts its potential) The 84 one I'm working on now still has the hitachi, it's working the best I've ever seen one, I'm leaving it has plenty of low end, and high. Never seen one work this well (odd being a california model I would think it would be worse), and with the five speed and FWD only should get great mpg's. Yours with the upgrades you have done should be great with a new carb.

27 with a 4 speed.
that should keep in the 30 with a 5.. thanks for the info.
the cali models have vacuum routes everywhere, it is a cfm increaser. my own has it too. By the time I narrowed the mess down to normal function..I started noticing the carb is really working hard. Nice carb..but am not playing games with vacuums going in circles.
at base runtime, I am beyond guessing less than 140cfm. :slap:
2 barrel gives heat just starting to flow...more for physic than rpm. odd thing to reveal..the heat wants a two barrel. :lol:
I have seen the other 80s models tortured, same mentality..getting a little car to really move fluids and air/fuel/exhaust as an older version is a win.

Right now, I am thinking of continuity to trick the heater..not sure how to tease it yet. this was another problem learned elsewhere..just have to jog my memory.

imagine a slant 6 with a new core and no heat (those cars are noted for being a roaster).. that was where I compared the old subarus last. Right here in maine. Cam timing can send it right out of the engine..there is a way with electricity to trick the core as to be attractive to fluid. I'll start simple, just stick a well stripped back wire into heater vent (core is right there), then run it over to a system ground..give it a few minutes.

I welded so much I must have shrunk continuity paths of old to be not so flowing just yet...and the cam has enough to need a fairly warm runtime (awesome- reminds me of old hot rod :lol:)
First winter squeeze will be the tightest anyway, should have expected it. (just another oddity).

I set it up to be much bigger, and now have to look at that constipation feeding fuel air.. will be swapping in the cold after machining intake. Frustration of midgetry has got to end.

the heater:
I remember what I did not finish. these cars with a/c have a core inbetween the duct to heater and fan for a/c core...whenever the click for defrost worked in.. the car had an awesome heater. The carbs, or no a/c is just simply an absolute physics retard.

so, rereading on peltier, grounding, and a chemical called water wetter...

I did get an aluminum exact fit piece in the duct work..and forgot to ground it. I do not know whether to go to heater motor, then from the piece to heater core, then chassis,
or just go the piece to core, to chassis.

riding positive charge of coolant, then just go the piece, to core to chassis seems the smarter thing to do, and simple.

the resistor block should be working some magic.. and it is not..maybe steal the ground for that, dynamical.
I know it is a physic, the loyale with a/c taught me this.

boxer3maine

10-31-2011, 01:58 PM

took glove box out, duct off..stripped a wire way back, and wrapped it around some rod spanning the heater core, then put duct over it, with a closed electrical connector for screw to some framework of glovebox and dash... in environment to out. The loyale was a good heater..a/c core breaking up the air, and that switch I mentioned..whenever defrost was to work, the heater got really hot. I used to use the defrost as the heat mode more than the heat mode.

not sure what the paranoia was for not grounding the core, alot of companies ship grounded...it is a hovering world of its own, wrapped in a plastic case, grommeted through the firewall. Attracting the heat (positive charged fluid is the hot side) and allowing a static disperse was missing entirely.

check valved and now attracting positive charge... my last straw with it.

power invertor and a small house heater is next.

there is no heat what so ever..as soon as I give it air. Torture of retarded physics. I hope this tricks it to at least defrost.

EDIT:

ok..so this is physics. Tesla stuff. tin cans from japans can do that.

changed psi at firewall with final welds (body complete as subarus outline, my build)
the dramatic cooldown in cryogenics happens even while running (boxers can do that- famous trait for longevity)
tires are .5 inch greater diamter than the 195/60. This means taller gearing, even less work (lower rpms equal less hammer to go through changes)
electrical is faultless..this means change is not at 60 hertz :lol: (chassis is at a hertz much more powerful)
oil and heat and clutch may come back all at the same time..a wait state
crazy as it gets for the old tin can. it only goes as stubborn as december solstice (21st), as per welding routines have revealed in the past years. From there, bad parts is the only excuse for drivetrain.

boxer3maine

11-03-2011, 03:11 AM

230am. All kinds of noise from the heads. Another astonishing epiphany. the middle ground I changed at the transmission allows the mains and rods to accept oil. Now, the fight to feed top end is an easy one. Noise calms down as engine gets warmed. This may not even be a bad engine after all. the power is awesome. the streets to myself at 2 in the morning... I could almost wager you have not heard an EA series like this. Getting the mud (not literally, I refer to the infamous oxides of change in the oil making it “thick”) out with an oil change to winter capable castrol syntec is on order immediately. Clutch will be on order in december. By May, rings, bearings, necessary gaskets..some more felpro permatorques. 8 solid lifters…should be less than 500 doing it myself. spare engine gets a tear down in spring time, if garage still available. Nickels and dimes is part of my vengeance. Year 16 with an EA82 my daily driver coming up soon..

quite enthused. that middle ground was very serious.
An oil change quick highway bursts and back to sitting around.

The welder is at the root of this one. My bad. very intense this year, the right rear and subframe cover.. simply very intense for this one.

98Wagoon

11-03-2011, 03:39 AM

boxer3maine

11-03-2011, 11:43 AM

Ive been a bit absent lately, however it sounds like the buggy is going along quite well. did you win that carb or are you still bidding for it? a new carb, the cams, your exhaust, the clutch and the rebuild in the spring will give this car the biggest 90hp anyone has ever seen. Im excited for the pictures and video. :up:

welcome back wagoon.
I hope to back off from the sube anytime and have my own absence. :lol:

I lost the 1 bid, but found others..same car.

it is big enough where the choke is annoying. ..hence I can use older carb,no choke, synchronous.

the fuel/air and fire is as big as it gets for this one.
on tiny fuel it is darn near trying to wind up like an F1 or a motorcycle.

time to kill it like modern day and give it big fuel air for some cushion down low, wind up slower.

speaking of chores ..

Rapid renewal registration.Renew registration from home computer with internet.
Still liking that alot. No lines, no waiting..off to nov 2012. The fees if to stay the same cost as current years..times 25 of them: $2020. This is exaggerated, as going back in time drops cost. I remember paying maybe 30 bucks for a whole year. Today a little tag along trailer does not even get away with that. Gas less than a buck. I could sleep to death in a dream remembering. Just the lifetime of a 1987 car has been through all that.
I learned this is cheap dues to initial dealer cost. This car sold for 10k in 1987.

ok...some more diagnosis. the racket, elongated, cold start..
I finally gave it a quick blip and smelled the grease. I used heavy duty grease on the rockers in august. Stuff must be like pudding in there. back to quiet instantly.
rather than change the oil, as I have not even gone to a carbon state since headgasket fail. I am adding 5w20, the whole winter.

That was another paranoid thing I did , aside from going to easy on the throttle... I changed oil too often. the alloys need the carbon to bridge a new build to viscosity... like a new cyl head on a volvo. this whole engine needs that process.

boxer3maine

11-04-2011, 07:32 PM

yet another jog of memory:
oil drained, a magnetic tip large screwdriver…my green one to be exact. In the drain hole with screwdriver all the way, it hits the other side of the little oil pan. pull back half way, pry down (push up on handle, use the hole as leverage, pushes pan down). This makes the pickup get some room, and allow whatever may be stuck or pinched to be moved out of the damn way. Then, with a home made scraper maybe from a coat hanger or thin strip of sheet metal..bend in a hook shape and pull stuff towards drain. I got silicone the last time..about an inch long, .25 inches wide. As it turns out.. that was the mushy remains of a front main seal.
I did this to return oil pressure in some year forgotten. Will do again tomorrow. I am not even that bad with memory..the chores and this car has a saga that continues in intervals I have never taken on this patiently. Come to think of it, continuing this forgotten task. I was to use my spare engine oil pan as the experiment to add a whole quart, increasing the capacity to 5.5..and of course this would strengthen the pan. Two birds with one stone. I do not know if the goal for this was 1, 2 or more years..I keep getting sidetracked on the same car for something else. This also tells me, the pump and setup being perfect is not a hoax.. it wants to suck at the pickup very strong.

this would also coincide with the tremendous heat on a sheet matal oil pan during HG fail. Why can I not keep all these odd chores in my head?

anyway.. the way it is cold starting, it reminded me of the last time it did this. I hope it gets it..as nothing seems to be gutting itself. Clean dipstick, aside from expected stuff (minimal copperish color specks from valve guides) A non-bypass stainless meshed filter would tell me now anyway. It is still clean, just noisy as heck, and low reading on the gauge. This also, even if nothing is stuck under pickup, fixes the gauge to have a continuity proper. if the pickup hits the pan, the gauge dies.
:iam:

will tackle tomorrow. So glad to remember..writing it out this time.

the pumps on the EA are so big.. it could be left with two bolts, a grooved shaft rattling to a bad t-beit, a spun main or rod to the point of missing entirely..and still read 45psi nominal.:eek:

just don't let the pickup hit the pan. :unamused:

boxer3maine

11-04-2011, 10:45 PM

that site with the rough hp calc.. I found something in the compression change.
As I am no expert..but have worked with small chambers and flat pistons. compression can get quite serious, in the v8 world anyway. The boxer could go to an astounding number and sit and be nice at all ranges of rpm because of its design (a reason I took my subaru on- I know it is high compression). The one I am running now is right up there, number unknown..but only my ear and my past in many other places.
this one was interesting:

Computation Results:

Engine Displacement (CID) is 108
Mean Compression ratio is 12.5
Engine Revolutions Per Minute is 5600 Computation Results:

Computed Engine HP is 138

138 ironically is the foot pounds according to subarus book.

12.5 is a number seen in the EJ series and now the new fa and fb engines...

I have uncovered with help, alot of badly written things about the EA.. this is one I would like to prove. Did not forget this quest either.. will get to it sometime. :)

the problem at the pickup, the oil pan..it is like an exact minick of an old chevy I ran...after changing compression to huge.

boxer3maine

11-04-2011, 11:32 PM

A strange note, and have taken notice to this before.. a smell of incinerator, it is just bizarre. I know to keep driving, and may even clean at the engine yet again. The winter routine surprises me everytime.. it comes in fast here, a year at a time apart, a world apart.. the car keeps doing the same things. I keep forgetting.

the first hint of the past year of utterly bizarre. nov 5 2010.

I mention the past, by looking a year prior. this post was new rear bearings... I wrote that it took 9 hours. very stuck, then by hand broke a grade 5 bolt, then had to grind it.
it was crappy weather too, but got in the garage next to the dump trailer. :unamused:

this date, as it turns out.. marks a year of posts in more than I have never written or cared to.

the incinerator was the cat, the egr cylinder did not let go. kaboom.

ode to some freakishly tough engine parts.. I even saw hints of thermite in the greater than half mile long trail of fail. The car way off in the distance, flashing high and low beam must have seen the fire too. Would love a description of what they saw. they were way in back me..long distance...and concerned about something...

My version of too slow in repair has been altered, this car needed the entire year..unexplainable. I will be amazed in the future to read back...every time.:lol:

boxer3maine

11-05-2011, 12:30 PM

12pm. Cold start, nothing odd. will leave it alone. Not going to pry at oil pan etc. It must have been a glob of grease.Accepting the antique status is not all that difficult. A full 5 to ten minute warmup in high idle is alright by me. Still in OEM hypermile fuel. Next post is something breaking, catastrophe, accident.. I am all done with the chores for this year. Trying yoko avid trz all winter, this car locks up all four in 4 lo anyway. My first year with it had bald 13 inch tread and drove through anything. A promising nuisance is the heat disappearing.. engine is on some big micronic move..not for us humans to decipher. Runtime in the cold has a hard outer surface, the innards have to find their way like puffing up a balloon that won’t swell. I can admit it is genius after 25 years to prove it to me. This is the secret to this engines longevity. During warm up..again the smell of a car wash, a little bit of grease. I’ll just drive.Having a spare engine has me not too worried anyway.

the runtime is ..nothing shy of awesome. Knowing the runted version of these cars for this long, and now hearing a runtime bordering exotic (todays normal).
humble.

just going to drive. all ingredients are in place..the cryogenic genius is on its own. It is going to have to be.

the #12 stickers came today for registration. fast delivery..
peeling stickers off to give it a closer spot to the plate. I stopped at the year 05.. I can't remember when I put these plates on, this car has had them for 5 years. The front looks like it went through an average day of afghanistan. :lol:

it does put into perspective what a car goes through to need all the weld and steel to repair. pondering 5 times farther than the mangled plate is the bumper on each side of it. the grille above it..the radiator behind it.

I also forget I am not the right size for this. Not one to wait in lines..everytime I do, I realize I am looking at the top of peoples heads. There is an average to everything..this sube goes along with defying alot of it.

boxer3maine

11-05-2011, 10:11 PM

I "stole" this from the infamous miles fox web pages for old subes, stuff he learned on his own (that seems to be the best knowledge, even by my own path of learning)

The 4wd single range 70's transmissions and EA81 2wd 5spd uses the same clutch disc. The EA81 4wd dual range 4spd and EA82 2wd 5spd use the same clutch disc. The 4wd 5spd, Dual, Range, and Full Time manual transmissions use the same clutch disc

Flywheel
http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/flywheelsurface.JPG (http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/gallery/rxbuild/flywheelsurface.JPG)The EA81 flywheel between 2wd and 4wd is the same, it uses timing marks exclusive to EA81 and EA71. It has ignition timing marks on the outer edge. The EA82 Flywheel is the same between 2wd and 4wd manual transmissions, and has timing marks relative to the EA82. It has ignition timing marks, as well as belt timing marks. An ea82 flywheel will bolt onto any EA82 engine. It will fit onto an EA81T, but you must use EA81 flywheel bolts. It will also fit onto an EA81 with slight bell housing modifications, and EA81 Flywheel bolts. The XT-6 flywheel uses a lighter version of the ea82 flywheel

Pressure Plate
The pressure plate is what engages or disengages the clutch disc from the flywheel. Pressure plates will bolt up to any flywheel/clutch combo, depending on the right motor/transmission combination. The xt-6 uses a stronger version of the EA82 pressure plate

so, xt6 clutch it is. I also found the rx, ea82, and xt6 ..all the same throwout bearing. So the kit they send as complete can have full use. The flywheel surface reveals that the disc is not even using the whole thing as well. The xt6 will use more. Being a heavier flywheel, this clutch should have been an option..but subaru of the 80s is what it is. At one point they had 3 generations nearly overlapped. Confusion accepted.

"rhino pac world car" something or other was the brand rockauto is offering. Not even more money to go with.:unamused:

another option is xt6 clutch over/plate assembly, and throw it back together with ea82 remains. I know I am going to find the disc with alot of life left.. this woiuld respect the pro advice I got about heat treating the can, just put in a stronger one. How he knew I am like that to communicate with?
hard telling, but glad he did.

I am simply going for the whole setup at 158 bucks before the discount. comes with the can/disc/bearing/special grease and "american made alignment tool and instructions".
:up:

boxer3maine

11-06-2011, 10:25 AM

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qt1xp4yAHAM/TqrQHPugR1I/AAAAAAAAC3M/zyoBlKmdffo/4588570177_9e9029166a_b_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?i mgmax=800 (http://lh3.ggpht.com/-x42cGwOzNlQ/TqrQGItIV4I/AAAAAAAAC3E/jBzETXcY6-o/s1600-h/4588570177_9e9029166a_b%25255B4%25255D.jpg)
the statue of liberty was surrounded.. I remember seeing it many many times trucking with my dad. countless is the word. At night, this was interesting to look at with the cage, all lit up.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cErchCo4dV4/TqrQMMn3XPI/AAAAAAAAC3c/SMzD2j-Ptqk/4588568657_312403d4e9_b_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?i mgmax=800 (http://lh4.ggpht.com/-7AxNbNS2Gc0/TqrQI7KOQXI/AAAAAAAAC3U/_hgya0g_Y00/s1600-h/4588568657_312403d4e9_b%25255B3%25255D.jpg)

At the time, I was driving more than I never wanted to in an old rig. Even the small cars, like the volvo in the photo was bragging of just 20s mpg. The big mistake was EGR..of course. Else, alot of the demise would never have happened.
the reason they made everything in the gas world use more? look at the emissions surrounding them.

not many cars got old timers laughing or enthused. At this time, the 80s, my dad hated everything automotive.

The saab was a funny one, and the little subaru..those have never not been funny. :lol:

my motivation for this car comes from being 11-12 years old and trucking.My dad, even as a trucker..did not have to say much about how he felt. His sad heart had an element of time...

A real finale would be taking on the 6.2 n/a diesel, also from the 80s..make it what it can be, like the subarus, saabs and volvos. they made real engines meet a terrible end. The boxer is the saddest. Instead of allowing to breathe... a constipated culture stabbed at the usa. "Can't win forever." that quote is much bigger than us all.

boxer3maine

11-06-2011, 09:08 PM

am looking forward to a winter chore..not like me to be like that.
this year is weird warm anyway.
goal for december.

I have never actually had an ea82 clutch grip entirely. A 2wd with 21 spline almost held it until my version, and the highway around 80..little bugger did not have enough clamp.
the 4x4, the one I am in now, needs at least a whole 100% stronger, my guessed math being arguable of course. On bald 13 inch, I used to get all four of them spinning..until clutch lost. Just the hill to climb onto route 9 in brewer maine set me off about clutch.

Now, the large tread, and engine squashed high comp and willing much like the neutral large cam timing of todays injected..and then the extra of solid lift. Full cold air. no pulses. Subaru never built it.

I am anticipating a surprise. I stopped calling my own ea82 small some years ago..time to get it all together.:)
I will not be forgetting the 10.4 second 2wd as a finale (yes it was ea82 driven).

the xt6 cover and disc together is the pressure plate that was quibbled about being wrong.Buying together ensures exact fit of course. If the disc hits the flywheel bolts, the disc was installed backwards (I guess that may be an easy mistake for certain brands.) Other than that...not much to second guess.

boxer3maine

11-07-2011, 11:33 AM

http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gXm8jxBdB9U/TrgHZv-dwmI/AAAAAAAADAg/Q4MVK00qBIU/bltfltr1yr%252520012w_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?img max=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vPe7ITf9ro0/TrgHYPB0ePI/AAAAAAAADAY/2MfAUKDxDrY/s1600-h/bltfltr1yr%252520012w%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
1 year with billet filter. This thing even captured the grease from cam install. Non-bypass. I got advice to use dish soap to clean 45 micron element…worked well. I underestimated stainless mesh and its ability to not get sticky with old viscosity. The filter caved in just once..and I simply puffed it back out,not broken. A lot to ask for form this little engine..with a pump 2 times bigger than the norm. The pump hits more than 100psi at times. Especially winter. the large volume opening in filter entrance is most welcome, and proving plenty strong. This actually allowed subarus built in 20psi relief to function at the filter head. Paper element filters have either a full bypass, or a weak loaded one, never allows subarus built in one to work. This filter allows that

This may be two years.. I have a post titled 1 year already for some odd reason. Quite certain it has been only a year now. :slap:
pausing in the chores, letting pan drain thorough (I need to fish the oil pan).. decided to take some snap shots after cleaning.

Seriously..in my time with way too many engines..this is by far the greatest thing I have ever purchased for an engine.

EVER.
:up:

EDIT: verfied one year
october 20, 2010 was install.
as computers play with math..and play tricks beyond our own minds into imagination.(I like to think the old sube is blessed even after catastrophe)...
the filter, after arguing with foriegn dialect, a manager, a delay, refund they would not allow, and more than a couple of weeks unknowing...it arrived on the cars 4th year of bill of sale.... to the day.

oil changed. No unusual in the oil or filter. Oxides are simply not done yet…I changed a lot for a 25 year runtime to be where it is at. I shined a light in on the oil pan..something complex with the pickup tube, looks like a coil going in circles.My loyale engine did not do this. I scraped at bottom of pan, see if anything would come out. Nothing. Spotless in there..if it does not want to pick up and be normal, it is an excellent rebuilder. This needs one long freaking ride. A lack of torque dig on a strong clutch is not helping things seat anytime sooner.

and for the final chore today...
chore #3447689059857573949848478684505908785606905

added some cushion for my ass without ripping the seat apart. using the cage at the bottom of the oem foam, added some filler weaved in. looks like it belongs..at least it feels like it does. :)

preparing for the gball extra terrestrial forces of new clutch. :rofl:

I can't even climb a hill right now with normalcy...and that engine is some sloppy. Thr runtime is very cold internally, depth of heat it used to be can't ever happen again...it may be this noisy forever.

boxer3maine

11-08-2011, 01:06 PM

back to analyzing things, chores slowed down...

oxides are kicking on fresh oil. Something is still moving into the magic mystery alloy self welding change games. They all do it..I got this one quite lit, and it is real obvious. Fast change, fast noise to change, and back to quiet. After oil change, I gave it 15 minutes playing with an oblong sound of completely different runtime put upon an old routine. some may remember the noise, like a rainbow of sound, small to large then back to small in perfect intervals. This engine gets over it in less than 20 minutes from a 30s degree start..then it remembers. Noise does not have to repeat.
That was a big win if you are familiar with it, you can relate.

This allowed me to put the clutch into perspective. The solid lift on the bigger cam lobe design is something subaru never built for. that would be off idle to whatever rpm. Alot more go power. No squishy hydraulic, and no runted cam. Clutch literally has not enough to comprehend it. I guessed a bigger air fuel, synchronous would slow this rally snap launch down (:lol:), but am not playing games with guessing. The bigger clutch is a must. I also put into my own perspective, the xt6 and ea82 may have a reversed mentality on subarus mistaken behalf... the heavy flywheel on the four cyl thumpers would need the bigger clutch. the 6 cyl pitter patters its way at 120 degree intervals...on a lighter setup.
Knowing subarus of this generation at the involuntary level I do...I may not even be mistaken. The xt6 could very well be the ea82 clutch and vice versa. Ever see the v10 porsche with the 10 inch disc? 72 degree intervals placing the clutch forces...this coincides with 180 degree (4 cyl) hard bangs needing more. :)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MtPyo0lzpl8/Trl0gQETnwI/AAAAAAAADGA/VyZW5EQxGWY/clutch%252520forces_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgma x=800 (http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7X7U0Fo9vxY/Trl0fpC1YGI/AAAAAAAADF4/xXmR2XKzNAI/s1600-h/clutch%252520forces%25255B3%25255D.jpg)
The inline four. Repulsive. I do dislike that engine for reasons beyond hillbillies defending them. The theoretical dispersal in vertical..it is actually a more up top at all times flunk than anything. the boxer 4 literally has the disperse pressure as photo’d. Truly two spots..from two banks of power. The boxer 6 is 120 degree intervals..better than an inline, but there is no correct 6 cylinder for this type of balance. A 120 degree block does not coincide with 720 degree fire evenly. The six is the only one with an excuse for being an odd pressure. the flat is the best math route for that anyway. For purpose of deciphering a clutch problem, the boxer four and inline four need a lot of clutch. This drawing shows why..at only two spots to punch with power every time.

..and some just go automatic. :slap:

:)

as cylinders increase, the distance of interval also decreases, pitter pattering the clutch and everything holding the engine in different areas..clutch can go a long time with big power. A v8, and onward with even banks...best clutches in the world. the diesel versions of any amount of cylinders will beat up stuff more of course. A real power number exists down low.

I found some stage clutches by a company called "SPEC" and it seems tempting. But looking at the specific can they have for xt6 stage 1, (refer to drawing above with the 3 locations for pressure plate) it appears they got quite specific. Given the ea82 has four spots for same idea, while only using two of them...it would not stay together on just two of course, so they use at least 3..which means it is impossible to bolt up wrong. This also tells me...the 6 and 4 have an all mixed and matched parts pile as universal as the ea and its pile of madness among itself. As of now, the rhino pac is $100 cheaper. compatible for any sube it will bolt up to.

The number found "flywheel spec= -.815" (makes no sense that I can find) is some side step for overall circumference of pressure plate side to flywheel..which is too stupid to even mention. That equates to less than 100 thousandths of an inch different using an ea82 flywheel. Different than what? hard telling. Photos above show the bigger disc needs to have the ea82 flywheel surface cleaned up in microns to take up some more room cleanly...I am going to use a gentle grinding/scrubber wheel in a drill gun. Let the disc gets its way on its own.Still better than a bumpy rotor getting new brake pads..we don't go resurfacing those everytime do we. It is just that silly.

the stage version on that wormy type tall tranny would be cool. wow. that would be as elite as it gets.I will just hope the xt6 oem is not a pansy letting too much go. I have found where it still slipped on some, and on others stayed a powerhouse. If they are using anything but spfi cams of the last generation..nothing is going to hold for long. There is a permament built in wobble to the timing ..a tragedy of the ea. The first 4 years of it...I do not know of a lucky one with centered cams.

at 8200 rpm, oem gears = 202mph. imagine the oem clutch simply trying to do 130?:lol:

boxer3maine

11-09-2011, 01:18 PM

This subject got quite serious for me. started when I was a kid clening my dads 1981 nuclear tractor trailer. It is part of my disabled status right now in fact. RIP smokin joe to a liver fail.

outrageous chemical chains exist.

As dreadful as a quick lube man in the pit…chains of chemistry known and unknown kill most engines. chemistry nearly killed me, it did destroy a normal path of life. Deciphering what cleans what and the byproduct is as lack of knowledged as the greedy chemist pretending to be famous for inventing. Aluminum is a pacifist. claiming it is on the outward flow at all times is as silly as claiming a tire keeps air in a maine winter. Anyway.. I learned tough machinery from weak. The Subaru is quite a morphing elusive self healing surprise. It does have perfect enemies…bangor maine sure as heck proves that.
Anyway, obsessed with cleaners after the mid 80s insanity called “Exhaust Gas Recycle” was removed in every way.. have found some real bad ones, and some good ones. The real powerful cleaners need the engine off and no power flowing through it. The sube will gobble it up like candy if to add electrical current on the engine. I will add to this as I learn. It has been 5 years with the science of this simple chore. Below is a list of a specific chemical, or a product.. all work abnormally well.

Propylene Glycol n-Butyl Ether (PnB): Because of high solvency, oil solubility, surfactant, and
coupling properties, and due to good evaporation rate control, high formulating flexibility, low
viscosity, as well as low toxicity, PnB may be used as a coupling agent and solvent in domestic and
commercial cleaning solutions such as degreasers, paint removers, metal cleaners, and hard surface
cleaners. These characteristics also allow PnB to be used as a coupling agent in water-based
agricultural formulations, facilitating the homogenous blending of ingredients with diverse
solubility characteristics. PnB is also used as a coalescent for lowering minimum film formulation
temperature (MFFT) in water-borne latex coatings and as a chemical intermediate for the
production of epoxides, acid ester derivatives, solvents, and plasticizers.

Example: Lysol 4in1 bathroom cleaner without bleach

Bombs Away truck cleaner..strong degreaser. find at a truck stop
Citric acid- even a degreaser at family dollar has it
phosphoric acid- alumiprep33, I even found the phosphate prefix in some antifreeze. Tide powdered laundry detergent. Acid is used to stop oxides of rust..aluminum goes super clean with it. Rust remover as a cleaner is an example.
Even the engine degreaser mode at a local car wash does not do much. the phosphoric acid route needs to be cleaned right off, the rest can take their time before rinsing.
The cat chains, or metal chains… the silliest outcome ever had been the lysol 4in1 bathroom cleaner and a rinse. Stops it dead. I did find acetic acid is a small part of their mix. this is the stuff subes make when it can’t break down anymore. Replacing headgasket, or silicone during drying..a mess tries to emerge, acetic acid is what I learned it to be. This could be why the lysol 4in1 cleaner takes it away abnormally well. some citric acid is also in the mix, the ability to evaporate all of it. I also use this to clean the bathroom as intended. My own is like a garage metallic smell- oxides after a day of welding climbed right off and stuck there on the shower stall. This was the only cleaner I have found to take it off. Simply funny multi-purpose. No simply green about it.
…use no bleach. It just creates a gas and does nothing useful.

that is just my learnings up to now. the most powerful reactions stretched plug holes, like little monsters fighting to stay alive, while cleaners fought to kill them. this sube had it as bad as I have ever seen.
much calmer today..the battle is a must do if to have a goal of preserving. Maintaining hardness beyond subarus squashy posioned exhaust recycle.