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Thread: Changing a Timing belt

  1. #1
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    Default Changing a Timing belt

    So here goes. this will be my attempt at a write-up for replacing your timing belt. I used an 04 wrx as the car, but if you learn how to do this, you can apply it to all the DOHC subarus. the only differences being the automatics. they don't have the belt guards, so ignore it if you don't have them.

    before you do this you should get:

    2 gallons coolant
    10mm socket
    12mm socket
    14mm socket
    22mm socket (1/2"in. drive)
    5mm allen socket
    2x10mm allen sockets
    small prybar x2/flat tip screwdriver x2
    3/8 drive ratchet for 10/12/14 sockets
    3/8 breaker bar
    1/2 breaker bar
    pliers
    bungee cord
    15"x 30" cardboard
    small needle nose vise grips
    2x small folder clips
    mirror
    "grenade pin" or suitable cotter pin for tensioner
    torque wrench (make sure it has 0-100 ft. lbs. in it's range)

    now, i'm sure you can substitute certain things here and there, but this is what I used .

    let's start!

    First, drain the coolant. use either the petcock on the lower passengers side of the radiator, or remove the lower radiator hose from thermostat housing.

    disconnect radiator fans:

    (passenger side)


    (drivers side)


    Remove 2x 10mm bolt/nut holding belt shroud:



    Pull and hold out of the way with the bungee:



    Remove overflow tank:
    quick removal by pushing in here, and sliding it out. note some may be held in place by 2x 10mm bolts



    Remove upper radiator hose:

    10mm here


    and here


    remove these two hoses at passenger end of radiator:



    here, you can remove the radiator with 2x 12mm bolts on top, or these 5 10mm bolts, and just remove the fans. depends how much room you want/need.

    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  2. #2
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    here is after removing fans:



    then insert cardboard to protect fins/tubes:



    loosen this 12mm a few turns:



    this 12mm too:



    then adjust this 12mm down far enough to get the power steering/alternator belt off:



    break this 12mm loose, and loosen a half turn:



    adjust this 12mm up far enough to take the tension off the A/C belt:



    remove these two 12mm bolts, and set aside tensioner and remove belt:

    Last edited by shtbxr22; 08-14-2010 at 06:27 PM.
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  3. #3
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    here is how you should look:



    route crappy belt like so, and break loose and remove crank bolt w/ 22mm socket on 1/2 inch breaker bar: (note there are several ways to hold crank while breaking loose/torquing)



    if crank pulley does not come off very easily, try LIGHTLY prying it from behind with two flat tip screwdrivers/small prybars. warning that the timing cover may crack if you over do it.



    after getting the pulley off the crank, remove the timing cover bolts, then the covers.

    set all timing marks where they need to be by either putting the crank pulley on and trying to muscle the engine to crank over to set marks, or you can put the bolt back in, and crank it that way. note also the double marks line up more or less on the sprockets in the center.

    crank-


    driver upper-


    driver lower-


    passenger upper-


    passenger lower-
    Last edited by shtbxr22; 08-14-2010 at 05:30 PM.
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  4. #4
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    remove guard with 10mm (automatic transmission cars do not have this):



    loosen 3x guards, w/5mm allen. note: there is one on each sprocket except driver's upper.





    take this here "grenade pin"



    put it in the tensioner:



    while pulling slowly and easily up with breaker bar with 14mm socket here, attempt to insert the pin while twisting to get into and through the three holes (if the bolt starts to tighten, you are going too fast/hard:



    should look like this:



    remove the 12mm from the small idler, and remove idler:

    Last edited by shtbxr22; 10-25-2010 at 05:09 PM.
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  5. #5
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    remove the tensioner w/ 14mm socket (be prepared for the sprockets on the driver's side to unload):



    if they don't unload, then kudos to you. you got lucky. be very slow around them.

    remove the belt.
    at this time, you should look around for leaks, check the pulleys for excess play, and pay close attention to the cogged pulley. it is usually the first one to give up. spin the idlers, and listen. they should be silent, but if not, i highly recommend replacing them. otherwise, you might as well start the countdown to destruction. in addition to the pulleys, now is the best time for the water pump to be replaced. it's just a couple of 10mm bolts. if replacing, make sure to torque to 9 ft. lbs. and use a new gasket.

    with new belt (OEM of course ) position so you can read the words. place small dots at the crank:



    hold very lightly with needle nose vise grips:



    position driver's side sprockets so they stay still with marks lining up, and route the belt over them holding them in place with folder clips:







    put the 2 breaker bars with 10mm allens in like so:



    slowly rotate both together clockwise until there is no longer tension from them:

    Last edited by shtbxr22; 08-16-2010 at 09:18 AM.
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  6. #6
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    now with all the slack you can route the belt the rest of the way around all the idlers and passenger's side sprockets.





    now turn the driver's sprockets back together counter clockwise to where they take up all the slack in the rest of the belt.



    there should now only be slack where the tensioner is going to go. so put it in:

    torque to 30 ft. lbs.



    now you can put the small idler back in torque to 18 ft. lbs.:



    double check all the timing marks again, then pull the pin:



    take a little piece of the timing belt box, rip a piece off and fold it in half. this will be your shim for the timing belt guards (make sure you get all 4):




    use like so while just slightly pushing the guard, and tighten the bolts after shimmed, you should be able to slip a single layer of the paper between the belt and guard freely:



    same for the crank:

    Last edited by shtbxr22; 08-16-2010 at 09:01 AM.
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  7. #7
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    now, you can put all the timing covers on. then put the pulley on, with belt setup again, or whatever method you want, and torque to 95 ft. lbs.



    so now, you pretty much do the rest in reverse order to finish up. for the tensioners on the other belts, you can just go back to the spot they were. you should be able to see where they were adjusted to prior to removal. then fill coolant, burp, and hopefully enjoy another 90-105k miles of driving.

    any more details you need clarification with, feel free to PM me. any suggestions are welcome too. enjoy!
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  8. #8
    Stage III Donator itsmy04wrx's Avatar
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    Default

    10/10 nice write up
    Hidden Content Originally Posted by jwebsta32 Hidden Content
    justin (9:21 AM): Two men,naked and rubbing all over each other turns me on.

  9. #9
    Mr. Geek Gearhead Geek's Avatar
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    Default

    Awesome write up man. Now I see why you said your brain was toast after doing it

    Just curious, at what point in those steps would you recommend changing the water pump if doing so?

  10. #10
    2.5L Mike's Avatar
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    Default

    Well since it is driven by the t-belt I'd assume the best time is after the old belt is off. I've never done work on a Subaru engine but from the pics it looks like it will easily pop off without pulling anything else out.

  11. #11
    3.0L batorr's Avatar
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    well done sir, well done

  12. #12
    8.27.11 squeethebee's Avatar
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    Once my 105k comes around I will be replacing my just replaced water pump, and possibly my brand new oil pump as well, since they aren't that much $$ and you are already right there. You should have gone over testing the rollers and such too

    But overall, good write up, did you have Kyle take the pics?

    ed
    "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went."

    -- Attributed to Will Rogers

    Hidden Content Originally Posted by Berge56 Hidden Content
    Webster gave it to your wife.

  13. #13
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gearhead Geek View Post
    Awesome write up man. Now I see why you said your brain was toast after doing it

    Just curious, at what point in those steps would you recommend changing the water pump if doing so?
    whenever you get the t-belt off, it's easily accessible. a few 10mm bolts and it's off. the cogged pulley is attached to it.

    Quote Originally Posted by squeethebee View Post
    Once my 105k comes around I will be replacing my just replaced water pump, and possibly my brand new oil pump as well, since they aren't that much $$ and you are already right there. You should have gone over testing the rollers and such too

    But overall, good write up, did you have Kyle take the pics?

    ed
    i can include that. i used my p.o.s. point and shoot for pics.

    and thanks guys, i appreciate the comments.
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  14. #14
    Pooswa! shtbxr22's Avatar
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    adjustment has been made. i will get the torque on the small idler and water pump on monday.
    You're saying Subarus are trash?

    I just find that funny seeing as they have pretty much always put out higher quality vehicles than Volkswagen. I own a Volkswagen (not a Subaru) and I can't even imagine trying to argue that VW is superior.

    -From VW Vortex. :D

  15. #15
    8.27.11 squeethebee's Avatar
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    You da man.

    ed
    "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went."

    -- Attributed to Will Rogers

    Hidden Content Originally Posted by Berge56 Hidden Content
    Webster gave it to your wife.

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